110723 Kenmore - Overview

Models starting with 110723

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Dryer Thermal Fuse – Part Number: WP3392519
$25.19
In Stock
Dryer Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(149)
Part #WP3392519
This part is a one-time use thermal fuse which attaches to the blower wheel housing of your clothes dryer. It cannot be re-set and must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the pins. Terminal size is 3/16".
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241
$21.14
In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(211)
Part #341241
This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.
Dryer Repair Kit – Part Number: 4392067
$56.05
In Stock
Dryer Repair Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(201)
Part #4392067
This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings, and one washer. This universal maintenance kit is an all-encompassing kit for fixing a noisy dryer, among other symptoms, but noisy being the most common. It is compatible with 27-inch wide dryers built from 1965 onwards. Be sure to disconnect the dryer or shut off the house circuit breaker for the appliance before you begin your repair. To access these parts, you will need to remove the dryer drum. For this installation you will need a 1/4-inch nut driver, a long flat-blade screwdriver, a short flat-blade screw diver, and a Phillips screwdriver.
Dishwasher Rack Track Stop – Part Number: WP8565925
$16.38
In Stock
Dishwasher Rack Track Stop
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #WP8565925
The rack track stop on your dishwasher is designed to stop the dish rack at the appropriate place when opening and closing the rack. If your dishwasher is not cleaning your dishes properly, the rack stop may need to be replaced. The replacement part may differ slightly from the broken part, depending on the model. However, the different styles are interchangeable. This product is sold individually and comes in both a white and grey plastic version. Many of our customers found this repair to be very easy and takes less than 30 minutes to complete. Simply snap the old part out and snap the new part into place. You will not require any tools to complete the job. This is an authentic part approved by the manufacturer.
Dryer Drum Support Roller – Part Number: WPW10314173
$28.21
In Stock
Dryer Drum Support Roller
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★★★★★
(15)
Part #WPW10314173
This genuine OEM dryer drum support roller is designed to hold the drum in place while allowing it to rotate smoothly and quietly during operation. Built for durability and reliable performance, it helps reduce noise and ensures consistent tumbling. Ideal for replacing worn or damaged rollers, it resolves issues such as squeaking, rumbling, or poor drum movement, helping restore efficient and dependable dryer operation.
Maintenance Kit – Part Number: 4392065
$51.62
In Stock
Maintenance Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(106)
Part #4392065
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver. Please note: Not all parts in this kit fit every model. Use your model number to confirm the correct parts for your unit.
Dryer Cycling Thermostat – Part Number: WP3387134
$35.80
In Stock
Dryer Cycling Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WP3387134
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
Dryer Door Switch – Part Number: WP3406107
$34.93
In Stock
Dryer Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(88)
Part #WP3406107
A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open.
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit – Part Number: 349241T
$29.23
In Stock
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(63)
Part #349241T
This dryer drum roller kit is designed to restore smooth and quiet operation in a wide range of dryer models. It includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one to two retaining washers, providing all necessary components for a complete replacement. The rollers support the drum as it rotates, and worn or damaged rollers can cause excessive noise, poor tumbling performance, or even leave marks on clothing. Replacing these components can resolve issues such as rumbling, squealing, or grinding sounds during operation. Compatible with many units from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Sears, and other brands, this kit offers a reliable solution for maintaining optimal dryer performance.
M Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834
$36.25
In Stock
M Series New Style Coil Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(43)
Part #279834
This gas dryer ignition coil set comes with two ignition coils: one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two terminal secondary coil. Usually only one of them burns out but you should replace them as a set. Both have to be operational for the gas valve to open.
Leveling Foot – Part Number: 49621
$10.95
In Stock
Dishwasher Rack Adjuster – Part Number: WPW10204131
$16.22
In Stock

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WIRE HARNESS-EARTH;-,-,- – Part Number: DA39-20389A
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This part number matches the current model number 110723
Part #DA39-20389A

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Dryer was working, but no heat.
3070 of 3494 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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Dryer tub belt broke
1370 of 1493 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ray from Denton, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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door switch was bad
1036 of 1098 people found this instruction helpful.
  • pat from lisbon,, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
i was able to go on line with your company , find my dryer, order the part and had it the next day. fast , great , service
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