This part is a one-time use thermal fuse which attaches to the blower wheel housing of your clothes dryer. It cannot be re-set and must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the pins....
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt att...
This thermal cut-off kit for a dryer includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires.
This dryer drum roller kit is designed to restore smooth and quiet operation in a wide range of dryer models. It includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one to two retaining washers, providing ...
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This high-limit thermostat with Terminal Extension Arm acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches 221 degrees Fahrenheit, this piece will shu...
If your dryer drum isn’t spinning, the motor might be the issue. This replacement motor works with many Whirlpool-brand dryers made before 1996 and comes with the pulley already attached. It powers th...
$143.77
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Joann
February 10, 2025
My dryer doesn't dry the cloths. Could it be a fuse or heating element?
For model number 11061252011
Hello JoAnn, thank you for your question. There are several parts you will need to test with a multimeter. The Cycling thermostat PS11741405. The Thermal Cut off kit PS334299. The High limit thermostat PS11742185. And, finally the fuse PS11741460. There are videos for installing all of these parts as well as a video on how to use the multimeter. Good luck with your repair.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off.
