1105818 Kenmore Dryer - Overview

Models starting with 1105818

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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(47)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Light Bulb - 120V 25W – Part Number: WPA3073101
$20.85
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WPA3073101
This twenty-five watt microwave light bulb is two and a half inches long. It has a small, screw-in base and it carries 120V. This item sells in a quantity of one, though many microwaves require two.
Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
$33.28
In Stock
Lid Switch
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(7)
Part #W10820036
Keep your washer or dryer running safely with this easy-to-install lid or door switch kit. It stops the machine from working when the door is open, helping prevent spills and accidents. Compatible with many models, this small but important part fits neatly inside your appliance and comes with everything you need for installation. Just unplug your machine, swap out the old switch, and you're good to go. It’s about 2.5 inches long and blends in with most interiors.
Thrust – Part Number: WPW10121334
$9.85
In Stock
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$10.40
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Front Top Lock – Part Number: WP18776
$18.95
In Stock
Front Top Lock
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(1)
Part #WP18776
This part is used to secure the top panel to the cabinet. Sold individually.
Dryer Clampmotor – Part Number: WP660658
$15.35
In Stock
Dryer Clampmotor
Part #WP660658
This clamp is used to secure the drive motor.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP488627
$17.38
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP488627
Sold individually.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP681414
$10.95
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP681414
This screw is sold individually.
High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP696818
$46.15
Special Order
High Limit Thermostat
Part #WP696818
L200-40F
SEAL-DOOR – Part Number: W11613302
$49.95
Special Order
SEAL-DOOR
Part #W11613302
Adhesive sold separately.
Door Cable – Part Number: WP230131
$12.55
Special Order
Door Cable
Part #WP230131
This dryer door cable is intended for use with spring part number PS343422. This cable is compatible with many of Whirlpool/Kenmore's brands of gas and electric clothes dryers.

Common Symptoms of models starting with 1105818

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Dryer door cable broken
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Rochester Hills, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges. ... Read more />
4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
31 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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