This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$15.95
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The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It is a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning.
$85.01
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If your washer is noisy, spins slowly, or leaves clothes soaking wet, this splutch cam kit might be the fix. It helps your machine switch between washing and spinning by connecting the motor to the ba...
$49.29
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If your washer isn’t spinning or making strange noises, the drive belt might be worn out. This genuine replacement belt connects the motor to the drum, helping it spin and tumble your clothes properly...
$35.94
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If your washer won’t start, spin, or agitate, this shift actuator might be the fix. It helps switch between wash and spin cycles and controls the agitator’s movement. It fits many Whirlpool, Maytag, a...
$82.49
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.80
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Having a problem with a funky-smelling washing machine, or one that just doesnt seem to clean your clothes as well as it used to? Say hello to the Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner by Whirlpool. This po...
$25.31
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This part is the replacement lid latch or latch assembly for your top-load washer. The lid latch holds your washer door closed, and allows the washer to run its cycle. If the lid latch is damaged, you...
$56.29
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This washing machine drain pump is a key component responsible for removing water from the tub during the drain cycle. Designed for select top-load washers, it ensures efficient water expulsion and su...
$151.87
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A detailed Service Technician Service Manual is hidden inside the machine on the front panel. It is hidden by the bleach dispenser input. It gives a list of fault codes and instructions for calibration after repair, resetting fault codes, and a manual test mode for stepping the machine through each mode on command. The Tachometer failed which would not let the machine come up to maximum spin speed. The tachometer is part of the solenoid actuator that shifts the transmission. It is not specifically called out in the manual. Any failure causes the lid lock light to blink which gives the appearance of a lid lock failure
The instructions that came with the part were worthless. Essentially, unplug, put in new part, plug it back in. I spent a considerable amount of time on the internet and finally found a video showing how to open the top. Unlike other models, it is held down by clamps in the back rather than clips in the front. Once finding this information the installation was simple. Remove the clamps and the back of the console, slide the top forward and lift, remove and replace the lock and reassemble. You don't even have to remove the hoses.
Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.
