This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal...
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
The valve body of this part could be blue or green in color. There are two ports for water to enter, and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
This agitator repair kit comes with a long cam, a thrust spacer and four dogs ears (agitator cogs). This repair kit is used to move the upper agitator and it connects the base of the agitator with th...
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
The instructions came with the repair kit, it was fairly simple and straight foward.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repair kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unbolted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
