11029132410 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers

Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.

UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done

My husband watched numerous YouTube videos before tackling it.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

move washer to get to backside, remove necessary screws and hoses, slid washer top over, replaced lid mechanism.

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.