11028133412 Kenmore Washer - Overview

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Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Washer Drain Hose – Part Number: W11244231
$37.25
In Stock
Washer Drain Hose
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Part #W11244231
The drain hose carries used water from the washer to your house drain.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$15.68
In Stock
Hose Clamp
Part #WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
Washer Washplate Screw – Part Number: W10752187
$12.05
In Stock
Washer Washplate Screw
Part #W10752187
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$10.40
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Washer D-Shaped Knob Insert – Part Number: WP8536939
$15.35
In Stock
Washer D-Shaped Knob Insert
Part #WP8536939
This insert is sold individually. Knob not included. Knob is sold separately.
Lid Lock Assembly – Part Number: W10810403
$112.36
In Stock
Lid Lock Assembly
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Part #W10810403
This lid lock assembly is designed for use in various top-load washing machines and serves as a critical safety feature. Located beneath the washer lid, it includes the locking mechanism and wiring harness that work together to prevent the lid from opening during operation. This helps protect users from exposure to moving parts, hot water, or detergent spills. If the lid lock is faulty, the washer may fail to start or stop unexpectedly mid-cycle. Replacing the assembly is essential to restore safe and reliable performance. This OEM part is sold as a complete unit and is compatible with a range of washer models.
Gearcase – Part Number: W11393685
$388.26
In Stock
Gearcase
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Part #W11393685
If your washer isn’t spinning, agitating, or cleaning clothes like it used to, the gearcase might be the issue. This part powers the agitator and spin basket, helping your machine run smoothly. It fits many Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid models and can fix problems like loud noises or a washer that won’t spin. Be sure to unplug your appliance before starting the repair.
Water-Pump – Part Number: W10876600
$178.67
In Stock
Water-Pump
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Part #W10876600
This drain pump is engineered for top-load washing machines and plays a vital role in the appliance’s drainage system. During the drain cycle, it efficiently removes water from the washer tub and channels it through the drain hose into your home’s plumbing. If your washer is experiencing slow drainage, unusual grinding or rattling noises, or standing water at the end of a cycle, the pump may be malfunctioning. Common causes include wear over time, electrical issues, physical damage, or clogs from small items like coins or buttons. Replacing a faulty drain pump can restore proper function and prevent further issues with your machine’s performance.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP356138
$15.07
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
Part #WP356138
This clamp helps to prevent leaking by holding the end of water hose in place.
Washer Screw – Part Number: W11404293
$30.40
In Stock
Washer Screw
Part #W11404293
Sold individually.
SLIDER – Part Number: W10734521
$60.45
In Stock
SLIDER
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Part #W10734521
This clutch slider kit is part of the transmission system in select washing machines, helping control the movement and speed of the agitator during wash and spin cycles. The kit includes a clutch band, slider, and lock ring, and allows the machine to start, stop, and shift speeds smoothly. If worn or damaged, it can cause issues like noisy operation, difficulty spinning, or failure to start properly. Replacing the kit restores proper function and helps maintain efficient performance.

Common Symptoms of the 11028133412

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
70 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
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Washer making noise on spin cycle
20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
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Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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