This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$9.68
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This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
$48.11
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The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check to ensure the suspension rods a...
$104.97
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This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate.
NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
$122.84
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$10.25
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This is a replacement lid hinge for your washer. It is approximately 2.5 inches in length and 1.5 inches in width. The lid hinge is what the lid for your washer pivots on. If the lid hinge is damaged,...
$14.15
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Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.
Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.
At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).
Re-assemble using new pump.
Note: Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
Removed the dial control top covering by unscrewing the 3 screws in the back of the cover. Once the cover was off, the control module was exposed and all I had to do was:
1. Disconnect the wires that were plugged into the control module
2. Remove the old module. There was 1 screw holding it in place.
3. Replace with the new module. Put back the screw back.
4. Reconnect the wires. There was about a 8 different plugs that needed to reconnected. So I took a few pictures of how the wires were connected/plugged in, with my compact camera (just in case I forgot where each went). I didn't need to use the pictures, but it was just a safety net in case I forgot where each went.
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring clamps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.
I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.
I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.
