11027042600 Kenmore Washer - Overview

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Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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(23)
Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Drain Pump – Part Number: W10536347
$154.38
In Stock
Drain Pump
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(31)
Part #W10536347
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
Basket Hub Kit – Part Number: W10820039
$52.45
In Stock
Basket Hub Kit
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Part #W10820039
This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
Washer Inner Cap Seal – Part Number: WPW10072840
$15.41
In Stock
Washer Inner Cap Seal
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(2)
Part #WPW10072840
Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
Washer Agitator Cap Barrier w/Seal – Part Number: WPW10074580
$22.63
In Stock
Washer Agitator Cap Barrier w/Seal
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(6)
Part #WPW10074580
The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
Suspension Rod Kit - Set of 4 – Part Number: W10820048
$87.03
In Stock
Suspension Rod Kit - Set of 4
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(31)
Part #W10820048
The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check to ensure the suspension rods are undamaged and working properly. This kit comes with 4 suspension rods, 4 bushings, and 4 suspension balls.
Washer Lid Lock Assembly – Part Number: WPW10619844
$138.38
In Stock
Washer Lid Lock Assembly
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Part #WPW10619844
This lid lock helps keep your washer running safely and smoothly. It locks the lid during cycles so the machine won’t spin or wash with the lid open. If your washer won’t start or the lid won’t close properly, this part could be the fix. It’s designed to work with many models and helps your washer know when the lid is open or shut. Easy to install with basic tools—just make sure the washer is unplugged first.
Washer Washer – Part Number: WP3949550
$17.26
In Stock
Washer Washer
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Part #WP3949550
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$11.52
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
Screw, 8-16 x 1.000 – Part Number: WP8533953
$9.85
In Stock
Screw, 8-16 x 1.000
Part #WP8533953
Sold individually.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$15.68
In Stock
Hose Clamp
Part #WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
Washer Hinge – Part Number: WP8563964
$16.55
In Stock
Washer Hinge
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(1)
Part #WP8563964
This is a replacement lid hinge for your washer. It is approximately 2.5 inches in length and 1.5 inches in width. The lid hinge is what the lid for your washer pivots on. If the lid hinge is damaged, the washer lid may not open or close properly. The lid hinge is screwed into the washer lid. You will need a Phillips-head screwdriver to detach it. There will be a lid hinge on either side of the lid, so be sure to determine if you need to replace both hinges, or only one.

Manuals & Care Guides for 11027042600

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Common Symptoms of the 11027042600

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Loose change entered drain pump, cracked housing leaked all water out
205 of 243 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBERT from BARRINGTON, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.

Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.

At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).

Re-assemble using new pump.

Note:
Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
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Washer always stopped at the 47th and 24th minute of each load and display F1 error code. I would have to press "cancel" and then "start" a few times for it to continue.
153 of 174 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Turnersville, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the dial control top covering by unscrewing the 3 screws in the back of the cover. Once the cover was off, the control module was exposed and all I had to do was:

1. Disconnect the wires that were plugged into the control module

2. Remove the old module. There was 1 screw holding it in place.

3. Replace with the new module. Put back the screw back.

4. Reconnect the wires. There was about a 8 different plugs that needed to reconnected. So I took a few pictures of how the wires were connected/plugged in, with my compact camera (just in case I forgot where each went). I didn't need to use the pictures, but it was just a safety net in case I forgot where each went.
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Water pump for draining
68 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from Alleyton, tX, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring cla mps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.

I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.

I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.
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