This kit includes an 8", three wire, 2450W surface element. This low rise element has an attached trim ring, and a terminal block with all three-wire units.
The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!
Raise burner high enough to remove screw located on hinge between coils. Remove screw completely and lift-out burner and ceramic block with wire connections. Remove the wires from the connector block and strip-back the ends of both about 3/4". Make connections per the diagram and then assemble the ceramic blocks around the connection in a sandwiched fashion and secure the halves with the clips provided. Now sit the burner down into place. An extra pair of hands is good here to hold the chrome trim ring and the coil up directly opposite the hinge. Then, peek under the coil and using fingertips, get the screw provided started in the hinge bracket and run this screw up snugly. A 1/4" nut driver makes this part easier, but a screwdriver will get it done. That's it. Just flip the breaker to restore power and cross your fingers. A fairly easy job that took about 40 minutes to do both 8" elements The potentially frustrating parts are the ceramic terminal block assembly and replacing the hinge screw, but a job that's very doable. Oh, don't forget to slip the drip pans back in.
The oven is 70 years old and used several times a week so getting it to come apart wasn't working. Used a light oil and some thinner to work loose the old seal, which was stuck pretty good, removed it by lightly prying the seal lip wider and pulling it out, mostly piece by piece. The worked in the new one and became of the light oil, it went in rather easy. Had to trim an inch or so from each end and wiped down and cleaned up. No more problems....
