1069650481 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Refrigerator Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
$58.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Capacitor
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★★★★★
(36)
Part #WPW10662129
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer – Part Number: W10854037
$186.07
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer
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★★★★★
(20)
Part #W10854037
The crisper drawer is clear plastic. The drawer does not include the white trim on the front. Sold individually.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$43.83
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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★★★★★
(36)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
$45.92
In Stock
Defrost Timer
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★★★★★
(12)
Part #W10822278
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater. The best way to make sure you get the correct timer for your refrigerator is to conduct a search for your model number. NOTE: The black lead on the defrost timer, will go to terminal number 2.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WP4387503
$51.65
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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★★★★★
(20)
Part #WP4387503
This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC – Part Number: W11745278
$18.95
In Stock
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC
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(5)
Part #W11745278
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets from potential damage. If your fridge is having issues opening or staying closed, check the hinges for any damage or cracking. To replace this bracket, simply remove the door off your refrigerator, unscrew and remove this bracket from the bottom of the door, and install the new one. This hinge bracket is an OEM replacement and is compatible with several different makes and models of refrigerator.
Refrigerator End Cap Trim Piece – Part Number: WP2156006
$15.95
In Stock
Refrigerator End Cap Trim Piece
Part #WP2156006
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Door Shelf End Cap – Part Number: WP2195916K
$23.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf End Cap
Part #WP2195916K
Sold Individually.
Refrigerator Crisper Cover Frame – Part Number: WP2314549
$197.17
Special Order
Refrigerator Crisper Cover Frame
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP2314549
This is just the frame. The glass is sold separately.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Glass – Part Number: WP2176225
$253.71
Special Order
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Glass
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(2)
Part #WP2176225
Frame Not Included. Glass Only.
Condenser Fan Motor – Part Number: W10822259
$288.12
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor
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(14)
Part #W10822259
NOTE: As per the manufacture the part does not come threaded. A self tapping screw will need to be used to make threads.
Front Roller – Part Number: WP2166108
$42.68
In Stock
Front Roller
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP2166108
Sold individually. Hardware not included. Roller only.

Common Symptoms of the 1069650481

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The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
430 of 518 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o pens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
137 of 258 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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