1069452381 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
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Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Refrigerator Door Cam – Part Number: WPW10329686
$15.29
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Refrigerator Door Cam
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Part #WPW10329686
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches onto the door hinge and should be replaced if broken or if there is noticeable damage. Refer to your model number and user manual to ensure this is the correct part for you. To do this repair you will need a 5/6 nut driver, a 5/16 socket, and a ratchet. For safety purposes, do not forget to turn off your appliance before making this repair. Note that this piece is black, and as per the manufacturer requires a new screw to mount the door cam which is sold individually. Please also note that this is the closing cam for the lower door, and the upper door cam is sold as a separate kit.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
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Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Door Closing Cam Kit – Part Number: 4318165
$35.15
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Door Closing Cam Kit
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Part #4318165
This door closing cam kit is intended for use with the bottom of refrigerator and freezer door hinges. The cam helps with the closing of the doors and to keep them slightly in position when opened.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$48.43
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Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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Part #WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$43.83
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Refrigerator Door Switch
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Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
$45.92
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Defrost Timer
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Part #W10822278
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater. The best way to make sure you get the correct timer for your refrigerator is to conduct a search for your model number. NOTE: The black lead on the defrost timer, will go to terminal number 2.
Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 833697
$115.19
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Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit
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Part #833697
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion and carries carries 2W and 115V. It comes with screws, a mounting nut for the blade and a cushion. This part provides forced-air cooling for the condenser coil.
Refrigerator Thermostat Assembly – Part Number: WP2198202
$94.98
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Refrigerator Thermostat Assembly
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Part #WP2198202
The thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$30.40
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Screw
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Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
ICE MAKER KIT-PKG ASSEMBLY (EZ – Part Number: W11700559
$300.34
In Stock
ICE MAKER KIT-PKG ASSEMBLY (EZ
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Part #W11700559
This genuine OEM ice maker kit is designed to fit refrigerators that did not originally come with an ice maker. This kit contains everything needed to install the new ice maker on your refrigerator including: the ice maker, ice bin, inlet valve, fill tube, and hardware. If your new ice maker does not function properly after being installed, check the freezer temperature. The freezer must to be around zero degrees Fahrenheit. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply to your refrigerator before beginning this installation. Make sure to check that your model is compatible with this part before ordering. Note: The manufacturer has updated this part. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
Refrigerator Door Shelf – Part Number: WP2156022
$77.32
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf
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Part #WP2156022
This refrigerator door shelf bar helps keep bottles, jars, condiments, and other items securely in place on the refrigerator door. It acts as a retaining barrier to prevent items from shifting or falling when the door is opened or closed, helping keep the refrigerator organized and reducing the risk of spills. If the original shelf bar is cracked, broken, or missing, replacing it can restore the function of the door shelf and provide reliable support for everyday food storage. Installation is simple and typically requires no tools.

Common Symptoms of the 1069452381

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation
308 of 327 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve earney from Brooks, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then n ot cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...
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Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
189 of 228 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Franklin, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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