10679722900 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$48.43
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Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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Part #WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$43.83
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
$45.92
In Stock
Defrost Timer
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Part #W10822278
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater. The best way to make sure you get the correct timer for your refrigerator is to conduct a search for your model number. NOTE: The black lead on the defrost timer, will go to terminal number 2.
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC – Part Number: W11745278
$18.95
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BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC
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Part #W11745278
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets from potential damage. If your fridge is having issues opening or staying closed, check the hinges for any damage or cracking. To replace this bracket, simply remove the door off your refrigerator, unscrew and remove this bracket from the bottom of the door, and install the new one. This hinge bracket is an OEM replacement and is compatible with several different makes and models of refrigerator.
Crisper Pan – Part Number: WP2256704
$169.10
In Stock
Crisper Pan
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Part #WP2256704
This clear crisper pan helps keep produce fresh by maintaining the right humidity inside your refrigerator. It measures roughly 13 inches by 10 inches at the base and is made of sturdy plastic. Always unplug your fridge before installation and refer to your manual for proper placement.
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: 4317943
$190.47
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
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Part #4317943
***NOTE: Ice maker does NOT come with the bail or shut off arm. You must order them separately if required. It does come complete with flat and round plug wiring harness, the mounting hardware, and the instructions. The harness can be reused. The ice maker will not fit refrigerators that have the ice auger mounted on the door.
Screw – Part Number: WP681249
$10.95
In Stock
Screw
Part #WP681249
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Shelf Glass Insert – Part Number: WP2262441
$223.09
In Stock
Refrigerator Shelf Glass Insert
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Part #WP2262441
Restore the functionality and appearance of your refrigerator with this replacement glass shelf. Made from durable tempered glass, it serves as both a storage surface and a crisper cover, helping to keep your fridge organized and efficient. The shelf is designed for a secure fit in select refrigerator models and installs easily without tools. Its clear design allows for better visibility and a clean, modern look.
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit – Part Number: WP2196157
$24.11
In Stock
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit
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Part #WP2196157
This kit comes with a fill tube and a compression nut.
Refrigerator Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap – Part Number: WP2156003
$17.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
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(1)
Part #WP2156003
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a damaged end cap could be the cause. To remove the end cap, first unhook the release tab on both ends of the retainer bar. Slide out the bar and the end caps, and slide out the defective cap. Now, simply replace the end cap and snap the bar with end caps back in place on the refrigerator door. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.

Manuals & Care Guides for 10679722900

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Common Symptoms of the 10679722900

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Ice Maker quit working, I could manually cycle unit but then the water would overflow when unit was re-filling.
596 of 639 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Max from Green Castle, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I backed out the 2 top screws about a quarter inch and then removed bottem screw with a quater inch nut driver. I then lifted Ice Maker clear of the two top screws and lowered it enough to unclip the power connection with a small screwdriver. The new Ice Maker was wired correctley for my refrigeator so all I had to do wea reconnect the power connection and mount new Ice Maker on the two top screws and install the bottem screw. It took e while for the new Ice Maker to start it's cycle but after it did, it worked GREAT. Part Select service was OUTSTANDING, ordered part one day and received the next. THANKS!!!!
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No Ice in the Ice Maker
201 of 237 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Duluth, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I am NOT a handyman, and my family laughed at me when I said I was going to fix the ice maker all by myself. I ordered a replacement ice maker. When it arrived, I opened the box and read the instructions. It seemed easy. I removed the old ice maker, with a socket set. I then took off the shut off lever from the old one and placed it on the new one, since the new one didn't come with it. I then put the new one in place. All the parts fit perfectly. The ice machine was making ice within an hour. My family was amazed... and I got the last laugh!
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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