10676392411 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$48.43
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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Part #WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC – Part Number: W11745278
$18.95
In Stock
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC
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(5)
Part #W11745278
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets from potential damage. If your fridge is having issues opening or staying closed, check the hinges for any damage or cracking. To replace this bracket, simply remove the door off your refrigerator, unscrew and remove this bracket from the bottom of the door, and install the new one. This hinge bracket is an OEM replacement and is compatible with several different makes and models of refrigerator.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP489497
$17.55
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP489497
Sold individually.
Start Relay – Part Number: WPW10448874
$123.43
In Stock
Start Relay
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(3)
Part #WPW10448874
The Compressor Start Relay with Overload is an OEM replacement part designed for use with several refrigerator models. This part attaches to the compressor to help start the motor, ensuring that your refrigerator runs smoothly. The overload protection feature helps safeguard the compressor from damage. Always unplug the refrigerator and store perishable items before installing the relay. Be sure to wear work gloves during installation for safety, and verify compatibility with your model to ensure a proper fit.
Refrigerator Insert – Part Number: WP489467
$17.55
In Stock
Refrigerator Insert
Part #WP489467
Have a Whirlpool refrigerator that's not functioning properly due to a faulty door hinge? We understand your problem and we have just the right solution for you ? the authentic OEM Insert Hinge Shim, designed specifically for a range of Whirlpool models. This essential part fits your appliance perfectly, ensuring your fridge's door operates smoothly once again, just like when it was brand new! Before you proceed with your purchase, please confirm that it's a match for your model. There might be similar parts out there with slight variations in size and shape, this helps to ensure we're solving your problem right the first time ? no more worries about unnecessary mess-ups or returns. Safety comes first! We recommend wearing work gloves during the installation of the Insert Hinge Shim. This part doesn't just restore your refrigerator to its optimal working condition'it also extends your appliance's life, resulting in a more efficient and dependable refrigerator. Choose the reliable Insert Hinge Shim for your Whirlpool appliance. We're here to see your refrigerator up and running and your life back to normal.
Freezer Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2163777
$66.96
In Stock
Freezer Evaporator Fan Blade
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Part #WP2163777
This part is used to circulate air through the inside of the refrigerator to help improve the cooling efficiency.
Cab Roller – Part Number: WPW10475495
$35.15
In Stock
Cab Roller
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Part #WPW10475495
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THIMBLE – Part Number: W11189115
$17.55
In Stock
AXLE – Part Number: W11594405
$24.13
In Stock
AXLE
Part #W11594405
Sold individually.
Hinge-Pin, Bottom – Part Number: WP2325483
$14.25
In Stock
Hinge-Pin, Bottom
Part #WP2325483
Refrigerator Door Bin – Part Number: WPW10364007
$72.38
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Bin
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Part #WPW10364007
This door bin is for refrigerators. Door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
Refrigerator Hinge Sleeve Hole Plug – Part Number: WP2212648
$14.66
In Stock
Refrigerator Hinge Sleeve Hole Plug
Part #WP2212648
Sold individually.

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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
38 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Ringoes, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
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Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
38 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Doral, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
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