1065907890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$48.43
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
Refrigerator Start Relay – Part Number: W10920279
$84.02
Special Order
Refrigerator Start Relay
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #W10920279
This is a push-on start relay for your refrigerator. It attaches to the compressor and starts it by briefly boosting it. It will then shut off as soon as the motor is up to the required speed. You may need a new relay if your appliance is too warm or will not start. The tools you will need to make this repair include a flat-blade screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers. This start relay measures to be just over one square inch.
Defrost Heater Assembly – Part Number: WP2323197
$89.88
In Stock
Defrost Heater Assembly
Part #WP2323197
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over.
Speed Nut – Part Number: WP486692
$15.06
Special Order
Speed Nut
Part #WP486692
This part measures 1/4-20 inch. Sold individually.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP489464
$15.39
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP489464
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Evaporator Drain Pan – Part Number: WP842041
No Longer Available
Refrigerator Evaporator Drain Pan
Part #WP842041
This tray is used to collect the access water from the cooling system to prevent water from leaking on to your floor.
Refrigerator Terminal Cover – Part Number: WP2162358
$61.55
Special Order
Refrigerator Terminal Cover
Part #WP2162358
Covers Relay/Overload on the Compressor
Evaporator – Part Number: WP2188822
$405.83
In Stock
Evaporator
Part #WP2188822
Compressor Dampener – Part Number: WP2158826
$6.55
Special Order
Compressor Dampener
Part #WP2158826
Wire Assembly (Production) – Part Number: WP2172890
$10.79
Special Order
Wire Assembly (Production)
Part #WP2172890
Terminal Cover – Part Number: WP61002138
$14.73
Special Order
Terminal Cover
Part #WP61002138
COVER-UNIT – Part Number: 2182057
No Longer Available
COVER-UNIT
Part #2182057

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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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refrigerator stopped cooling, otherwise fine
48 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Bethesda, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Well first of all, I was afraid that the compressor was shot and I'd need a whole new refrigerator (ack $1000!!!). After googling/reading, I figured out that the starter relay mounted on the compressor was burned out. (loud click as thermal cutout shuts down compressor.) So, I ordered a replacement part, overnight shipping. Unfortunately, this was on a Friday night, so I had to figure out how to keep the fridge cold all weekend (til Tuesday). I'd already moved frozen stuff to a chest freezer, but the inside of the fridge compartment was now nearly warm at this point, so I got 10 lb of dry ice. That got things cooled down initially. Well, turns out that with a short piece of wire, you can momentarily jump across the terminals of the relay and kick start the compressor. It then runs until either the defrost cycle stops it or the thermostat kicks it off. Anyway, all weekend, every six hours or so, I turned off the fridge for a minute to cool down the overheated, stalled compressor, then turned it on and jumped the terminals to start it up. Kind of a pain, but saved lots of food. Overall, the $30+$30 (shipping) for the part saved me from having to get a new refrigerator, so I'm quite pleased. I've used Part Select many times now. Very fast service and shipping, great website/database. I shop around and every time end up buying from them again.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
38 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Ringoes, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
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