10658993801 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Refrigerator Lower Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WP2182179
$15.31
In Stock
Refrigerator Lower Door Closing Cam
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Part #WP2182179
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack or wear down over time. If your door will not open and close properly you may need to replace the door closing cam. To successfully install this part, you will need a 5/16 nut driver and a small flat blade screwdriver. Before you begin, unplug your appliance and disconnect the water supply. Lubricating this part may help with installation. This replacement part is sold individually. This part will fit both the left and right side of your refrigerator door. To make the repair, remove the top hinge cover, then the top hinge support. Lift the door from the bottom support and remove the old door cams. Replace the cams, using a little lubricant if necessary, and place the door back on the lower hinge support. Replace the top hinge support and your repair is complete!
Refrigerator Door Cam – Part Number: WPW10329686
$15.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Cam
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Part #WPW10329686
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches onto the door hinge and should be replaced if broken or if there is noticeable damage. Refer to your model number and user manual to ensure this is the correct part for you. To do this repair you will need a 5/6 nut driver, a 5/16 socket, and a ratchet. For safety purposes, do not forget to turn off your appliance before making this repair. Note that this piece is black, and as per the manufacturer requires a new screw to mount the door cam which is sold individually. Please also note that this is the closing cam for the lower door, and the upper door cam is sold as a separate kit.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle – Part Number: WP2188664
$108.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle
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Part #WP2188664
This OEM, clear convertible meat drawer can be used to store meats or vegetables and is designed for the lower portion of your refrigerator, generally. It has its own cold air duct to allow cold air from the freezer to flow into the drawer. You could have a broken or faulty drawer if you find that the food is kept within is spoiling or drying out quickly. The drawer should slide open and closed with ease. If your drawer will not easily slide open or closed, check the tracks that the drawer slides on. If the tracks are not damaged, the drawer itself could be at fault and should be replaced. Inspect it for visible damage like cracking or warping, which should be obvious. This part measures approximately 16 7/16 inches wide x 14 5/16 inches deep x 7 5/8 inches high and is a genuine OEM replacement part. It is sold individually. Note that there are several different types and options for the lower vegetable and meat drawers for your refrigerator, and you should check your user manual carefully to ensure that this is the drawer you are looking for.
Refrigerator Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
$58.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Capacitor
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Part #WPW10662129
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: W10408179
$108.19
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
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Part #W10408179
This water inlet valve supplies water to your refrigerator’s ice maker and dispenser. It includes a valve, tubing, and a coupling. The pre-filter bracket connector must be purchased separately if required. Unplug the refrigerator and wear gloves for safe installation.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$48.43
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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Part #WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
Water Filter Cap - Black – Part Number: WP2260518B
$48.35
In Stock
Water Filter Cap - Black
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Part #WP2260518B
This black cap covers the water filter.
Screw – Part Number: WP681249
$10.95
In Stock
Screw
Part #WP681249
Sold individually.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WPW10190965
$113.29
In Stock
Ice Maker
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Part #WPW10190965
This is the icemaker only. You must use the wire harness, cover and bail arm from the original icemaker. This is an icemaker for your refrigerator/freezer. Take note that this part does not include the front cover, the wire harness, or the shut-off arm. These must be ordered separately or recycled from your old unit. This unit as a whole will allow your appliance to produce ice. This model makes eight radius ice cubes.If your ice maker is no longer making ice, dispensing ice, or if it is leaking, it will need to be replaced.
Ice Door Kit – Part Number: W10823377
$97.99
Special Order
Ice Door Kit
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Part #W10823377
This kit includes the ice door, support, spring and delay. The heater ribbon is no longer attached - the heater is no longer needed.
Water Filter Housing – Part Number: WPW10121138
$118.41
In Stock
Water Filter Housing
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Part #WPW10121138
This part does NOT include the water filter. The water filter is sold separately. The water filter housing holds the water filter and connects the water lines to the water filter.

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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
394 of 419 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is cl osing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
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When the remote water was turned on, water was pouring onto floor from rear of refrigerator
214 of 248 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Wolfeboro, NH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I unplugged the fridge, then using the socket set I removed the cardboard shield from the lower rear of the refrigerator. I located the leaking water from a cracked solenoid water valve just inside the lower cavity directly behind the water intake line. Removing the valve was a snap - most of the valve plastic compression coupling s unscrewed and came off. The metal compression fittings required an adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers to hold the solenoid unit steady. A couple of hex nuts kept the solenoid bolted to the refrigerator frame and came off easily with the socket. Two simple push-on electrical plugs came right off just by pulling on them. The new valve unit wasn't exactly like the original one. It had push-on instead of compression water fittings and the plugs were oriented differently. I recommend studying which water lines entered which port on the valve because I was a little unsure after I took the old one apart (whoops). After figuring out how to put it pack together, the push-on water fittings were even easier, and the unit was scewed back into place on the fridge frame. The electric plugs have different sized contacts so you can't mix them up. I put the cardboard shield back on. Viola!
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