This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$27.49
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This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$9.68
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This compressor start relay is for refrigerators. The compressor start relay attaches to the compressor and helps start the compressor motor. Safely store any food that could deteriorate while the pow...
$97.36
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This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$35.26
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Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators.
The door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
$54.73
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$47.43
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This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$16.23
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Questions And Answers for 10651132213
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Beth
February 5, 2020
There is water getting to my door but not to the icemaker, what could be the problem. Is there more than one water filter in the refrigerator?
For model number 10651132213
Hi Beth,
Thank you for your question. There would be one water filter inside your refrigerator. If your ice maker isn't producing ice at all or is producing crescents or cubes that are smaller than usual, it's typically indicative of a clog somewhere along the supply line. A common cause for a clog is frozen water in the line. To repair a frozen line, slide the refrigerator and unplug it. Locate the shut-off valve, typically underneath the sink or behind the refrigerator. Turn the valve to the closed or off position. Fill a turkey baster with warm water and pour the water over the water line. Alternatively, you can defrost the water line with a hair dryer or by letting the refrigerator sit unplugged for upward of two hours. Restore power to the refrigerator and listen for the water supply to fill the ice mold. If the clog is anything but translucent, consult with a professional for help removing the clog. There is also a possibility that the water filter for the ice maker is clogged. Locate and replace the water filter. Filters for ice makers are typically located inside the refrigerator (to keep them from freezing). We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Jenn
February 24, 2020
We can get water through dispenser and regular ice cubes are being produced but we can not get ice to dispense through the door. I have reset it and emptied the ice cube bin and verified there are no clogs but still will not dispense ice.
For model number 10651132213
Hi Jenn,
Thank you for your question. If the dispenser is not dispensing ice, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the ice door, the electronic control board, the actuator pad, the refrigerator auger motor, the seal and the coupling. You will need to test the parts with a multi-meter. Here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to use one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. For the electronic control board, you will need to check it for signs of damage, wear and burn marks. If it shows any of these signs, it will need to be replaced. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Lee
May 7, 2023
i need to fix the light. they are verry dim
For model number 10651132213
Hello Lee, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, if you want to fix the light in the freezer section, you may need to replace the LED light, part number PS11755866. If you want to fix the light in the refrigerator section, you may need to replace the LED light control board, part number PS11755867. We hope this solves your problem!
The lights in the fridge are liking, too dark, can’t see. Please recommend what part i should replace.Thanks,
truc
For model number 10651132213
Hello Truc, thank you for your question. If the lights in the fridge are the only lights that are dim we would recommend replacing PartSelect Number PS11755867 for the lights on the ceiling of the fridge section, and PartSelect Number PS11755866 for the light module that is toward the bottom back of the fridge section. I hope this helps.
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Stephanie
May 30, 2022
Refrigerator and freezer lights flickering.
For model number 10651132213
Hi Stephanie,
Thank you for your question. If both lights are still strobing inside the refrigerator, you should check both LED lights in the refrigerator to see which one is causing the issue and if it is not one of them you will need to check the LED electronic control board. You will need to test the parts with a multimeter. We have included a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to use one. Once you have determined the part you need, please feel free to call customer service. We are open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. We look forward to hearing from you!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
