10648067894 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(47)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Refrigerator Lower Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WP2182179
$15.31
In Stock
Refrigerator Lower Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(29)
Part #WP2182179
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack or wear down over time. If your door will not open and close properly you may need to replace the door closing cam. To successfully install this part, you will need a 5/16 nut driver and a small flat blade screwdriver. Before you begin, unplug your appliance and disconnect the water supply. Lubricating this part may help with installation. This replacement part is sold individually. This part will fit both the left and right side of your refrigerator door. To make the repair, remove the top hinge cover, then the top hinge support. Lift the door from the bottom support and remove the old door cams. Replace the cams, using a little lubricant if necessary, and place the door back on the lower hinge support. Replace the top hinge support and your repair is complete!
Refrigerator Door Cam – Part Number: WPW10329686
$15.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(69)
Part #WPW10329686
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches onto the door hinge and should be replaced if broken or if there is noticeable damage. Refer to your model number and user manual to ensure this is the correct part for you. To do this repair you will need a 5/6 nut driver, a 5/16 socket, and a ratchet. For safety purposes, do not forget to turn off your appliance before making this repair. Note that this piece is black, and as per the manufacturer requires a new screw to mount the door cam which is sold individually. Please also note that this is the closing cam for the lower door, and the upper door cam is sold as a separate kit.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle – Part Number: WP2188664
$108.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(39)
Part #WP2188664
This OEM, clear convertible meat drawer can be used to store meats or vegetables and is designed for the lower portion of your refrigerator, generally. It has its own cold air duct to allow cold air from the freezer to flow into the drawer. You could have a broken or faulty drawer if you find that the food is kept within is spoiling or drying out quickly. The drawer should slide open and closed with ease. If your drawer will not easily slide open or closed, check the tracks that the drawer slides on. If the tracks are not damaged, the drawer itself could be at fault and should be replaced. Inspect it for visible damage like cracking or warping, which should be obvious. This part measures approximately 16 7/16 inches wide x 14 5/16 inches deep x 7 5/8 inches high and is a genuine OEM replacement part. It is sold individually. Note that there are several different types and options for the lower vegetable and meat drawers for your refrigerator, and you should check your user manual carefully to ensure that this is the drawer you are looking for.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(23)
Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$48.43
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WPW10225581
If ice is building up in your freezer or if your freezer is getting too warm on the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal thermostat.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$43.83
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(36)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
$45.92
In Stock
Defrost Timer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #W10822278
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater. The best way to make sure you get the correct timer for your refrigerator is to conduct a search for your model number. NOTE: The black lead on the defrost timer, will go to terminal number 2.
Refrigerator Thermostat Assembly – Part Number: WP2198202
$94.98
In Stock
Refrigerator Thermostat Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(25)
Part #WP2198202
The thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$30.40
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
ICE MAKER KIT-PKG ASSEMBLY (EZ – Part Number: W11700559
$300.34
In Stock
ICE MAKER KIT-PKG ASSEMBLY (EZ
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #W11700559
This genuine OEM ice maker kit is designed to fit refrigerators that did not originally come with an ice maker. This kit contains everything needed to install the new ice maker on your refrigerator including: the ice maker, ice bin, inlet valve, fill tube, and hardware. If your new ice maker does not function properly after being installed, check the freezer temperature. The freezer must to be around zero degrees Fahrenheit. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply to your refrigerator before beginning this installation. Make sure to check that your model is compatible with this part before ordering. Note: The manufacturer has updated this part. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2169142
$41.53
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate the cold air into the refrigerator and freezer sections. The fan blade is white in color and made from plastic. This is a genuine OEM part. Please be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.

Manuals & Care Guides for 10648067894

Click to download

Common Symptoms of the 10648067894

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
394 of 419 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is cl osing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation
308 of 327 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve earney from Brooks, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then n ot cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!