1058 - Overview

Models starting with 1058

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch – Part Number: WPW10196405
$17.96
In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
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Part #WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookware on the burner. The diameter of the drip bowl is approximately 10 inches. This replacement might appear slightly different, but it will fit your appliance. You will need no tools to complete this repair. Simply remove the burner element, remove the old bowl, line up the hole on the new bowl with the terminal block and drop it into place. Make sure the bowl is flat before reinstalling the element. While you have the element out you should inspect the terminals for corrosion, damage, or discolouration. If you notice any of those things you should also replace the element and terminal block. You will need to replace your drip bowl if it is lost, damaged, or can no longer be cleaned. This replacement part is sold individually. To extend the life of your new drip bowl we recommend you clean it regularly with soap and water. We recommend only using the recommended drip bowl for your appliance; generic versions will not fit properly which could affect the performance of your elements and cause long-term damage.
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WPW10196406
$14.10
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
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Part #WPW10196406
This drip bowl is used for electric cooktops and ranges, it is designed to sit under a 6-inch surface burner. It catches the drips and spills coming from the cookware on the surface burner. This drip bowl is chrome, and it has a diameter of 8 inches. You need to remove the burner element to replace this part. Line the hole up with the element terminal blocks, and ensure the new bowl is flush with the surface of the cooktop before replacing the burner element. Drip bowls need to be replaced when they are lost, damaged, or you are no longer able to clean them adequately. This replacement part is sold individually.
Surface Burner Receptacle Kit – Part Number: 12001676
$27.20
In Stock
Surface Burner Receptacle Kit
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(30)
Part #12001676
This kit comes with one ceramic block, metal bracket, wires, and hi-temp wire nuts.
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10015
$29.35
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Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
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Part #WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10014
No Longer Available
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
Part #WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be found beneath the element and catches spills. If your old burner bowl is damaged or missing, you may need to replace it with this part.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$47.53
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Oven Sensor
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Part #WB21X5301
This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
Range Terminal Block – Part Number: WPW10245259
$41.51
In Stock
Range Terminal Block
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(2)
Part #WPW10245259
It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
Screw - 10-16 x 1 – Part Number: WP3387230
$10.44
In Stock
Screw - 10-16 x 1
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(2)
Part #WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
Oven Door Spring – Part Number: WP7803P058-60
$28.13
In Stock
Oven Door Spring
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(1)
Part #WP7803P058-60
This oven door spring is six inches long, and is made of metal.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$66.88
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
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(2)
Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set features a two-piece design that allows fat to drain away for cleaner cooking and reduced splatter. Made with a durable, high-heat resistant porcelain finish, it offers reliable performance and easy cleanup. Measuring approximately 16 3/4 inches long by 12 3/4 inches wide and 1 3/4 inches high, it provides a practical solution for everyday broiling and roasting.

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Pin – Part Number: 1058
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Pin
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Part #1058
Manifold – Part Number: 1058
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Manifold
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Part #1058

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Drip bowls were burned and tacky
473 of 483 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donna from Dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
First I removed the old bowls and replaced them with the new.
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Drip bowls needed to be replaced
455 of 546 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Chester, VT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took old bowls out, put new bowls in, took a coffee break
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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