1034688610 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$47.53
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Oven Sensor
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Part #WB21X5301
This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
Bake Element – Part Number: WB44K5012
$135.56
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Bake Element
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Part #WB44K5012
This partially open-style bake element comes with ¼-inch push-on terminals and is located on the bottom of the oven. This bake element provides heat for baking. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, the element is not heating, or has little to no heat when baking, you may need to replace your bake element. You can use a multi meter to test the bake element for electrical continuity to see if you need to replace it. This is a genuine OEM part. Please remember to disconnect the power to the range before starting your repair.
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB32X106
$70.92
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Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
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Part #WB32X106
This 8-inch chrome drip pan is designed to sit beneath the heating element on electric ranges, serving as a protective barrier that catches spills, drips, and food particles during cooking. Measuring approximately 9.5 inches in diameter and 1.5 inches in height, it is constructed from durable, chrome-plated steel for long-lasting performance and easy cleaning. By preventing residue buildup beneath the burners, it helps maintain a clean and efficient cooking surface. This drip pan is compatible with a variety of electric range models and is ideal for replacing worn, stained, or missing burner bowls. Installation is simple and requires no tools—just lift the element and place the pan underneath.
Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2100W – Part Number: WB30X253
$75.21
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Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2100W
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Part #WB30X253
This part is the replacement surface burner or element for your range. It is approximately 8 inches in diameter, and 2100 watts. The surface burner connects to the power source and when it is turned on, it heats up to cook your food. If you turn on the burner and the element does not heat up, it will need to be replaced. To complete this repair, first be sure to disconnect the power from your range, and ensure the burner is cool to the touch. Then, gently remove the burner from the terminals and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually, and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB32X107
$19.95
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Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
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Part #WB32X107
This six inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with rolled terminal style plug in surface element units.
Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719
$21.50
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Single Heating Element Support Clip
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Part #WB2X9719
This metallic clip is used to help support the broil element. Sold individually.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$68.19
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Broiler Pan - Large
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Part #WB48X10056
Includes the pan and grate.
Screw – Part Number: WB1X1130
$13.95
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Screw
Part #WB1X1130
Sold Individually.
Rolled Terminal Surface Unit - 6" - 1250W – Part Number: WB30X254
$80.81
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Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17X210
$91.36
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Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
Part #WB17X210
This kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip and wires.
Screw – Part Number: WB1M1
$12.95
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Screw
Part #WB1M1
Sold Individually.

Common Symptoms of the 1034688610

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Bake element cracked on its own
627 of 638 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Cordova, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, fl ip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
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Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
388 of 392 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from Hayward, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who ha d already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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