WT1101CW LG Washer - Instructions

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

Looked on line for instructions, took my time and the repair went very easy. Just be careful not to drop screws in tub.

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!

Description provided on website was that repair was similar to another washing machine where you press in on spring clips to release top of machine to access hinge. Not correct at all.

There are two screws on top of machine that are covered by caps. Remove caps and then remove screws. Lift up / prop up machine top and you have easier access to 2 screws that hold plastic hinge in place. Remove screws and replace hinge and replace screws. Took me longer to figure out I had incorrect directions than it did to replace hinge.

Tried everything and could not get it out I just use mesh bags for washing at this time, but LG washing machine is the worst I have ever had

The old dispenser is removed by slightly raising the front as you pull it out of the housing slot. To install the new dispenser, keep the front slightly tilted up and insert the new dispenser into the housing alot

Move the washer to the garage and laid it on its side. Remove the large nut from the center shaft using a crescent wrench. Tap the wrench with a hammer until the nut comes loose. Next you'll need a puller to remove the part that was secured by the nut. Mine would not come off by hand. Next remove the three screws securing the white plastic components to the bottom of the washer. Remove the two plastic pieces and throw them in the trash because I'm sure they're garbage. Reverse the process for installation and reinstall the washer. Put some clothes in for the test wash and the washer should be silent. Two different appliance repair folks gave me estimates that were higher than the cost of replacement. I got out from under this fix for around a hundred bucks. It was worth every minute of my time. Good luck.

I noticed that my washer was leaking water into the tub. It was dripping, very slowly, but it was dripping. I noticed first, because it was starting to smell, and I didn’t understand why. Once I noticed that it was dripping, I checked online and noticed that the solenoid water inlet is most likely the problem. I found the part on parts, select, and confirmed with my model. The pictures were very close and similar, so I was pretty sure I was getting the cracked part. Once I received the part, it was time to fix it. You just have to turn the water supply off, remove the inlet lines with a adjustable wrench, if necessary, and then get to the washer. Make sure you also unplug the washer. There are only two Phillips head screws to remove to get the vanity cover off of the back. For whatever reason my removal was a little bit difficult for this. There are some plastic clips that hold the front portion on of the vanity plate. These were very tight, and I was afraid I would break them, but eventually they came loose with gentle upward pulling. Once this was off, it was super easy to identify the part that needed replacement. There are two hose clamps that you just need a pair of pliers to squeeze in slide off the hose. Then you remove three additional Phillips head screws, and the other connections pop out on their own. The solenoid plugs are very simple to slide off, and it is really difficult to put them on any other way. If you need to, you can take a few photos of the installation. Once you have the old one out, hook up the hoses first, and slide the hose clamps back to their original position. Once you have the two black hoses back on, reposition the new valve body, and slide the additional three prongs into the inlet soap dispenser. Make sure that the fit is snug. Don’t over push, the parts are plastic. Once this is done, reinsert, the three Phillips screws into their holes. Then you can reconnect the solenoids. At this point the replacement is done, and all you have to do is replace the vanity cover. Take time to ensure that you’ve done this correctly. I left the vanity cover off and ran a test load of dirty clothes to make sure that there were no leaks. Once I assure, there were no leaks, I put the vanity cover back on and put the two screws on. This was a very easy fix. Again, just go slow removing the vanity plate so you do not crack or break the tines in the front.

The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair

Very simple repair after watching YouTube video on how to complete repair.