JCP350BA2BB General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Very easy to replace. So easy even a man can do it.

Secured the power to the unit. Removed the burner knobs (5)and then lifted the unit from the granite counter top. Removed the screws (14) holding the glass top on and then removed the glass from the metal base. Removed the two screws holding in the selector switch, which was broke with a new one. Cleaned the metal base and installed the new glass top on it. Screwed the new top down. Cleaned the edge of the counter top and placed the unit back in with double face sealer tape. Placed the new knobs on for the burner controls, placed power back in service, tested job completed. Harry (

Removed stove top from counter, removed glass top by removing 10 phillps screws, removed control bracked, unplugged connectors(wires) on old control and plugged into the correct position on the new control, replace control on the bracket then reinstalled the stove top and placed the stove top back into counter.

Just put it on the control post

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

Turned of the electric at the circuit breaker. Removed the cable clamps for the electric feed cable to enable free movement of cooktop. Lifted cooktop from the counter and propped up on counter ledge. Removed control knobs. Removed perimeter screws, 8 phillips, from around the edge of the cook top surface where it attaches to the sheet metal housing and lifted glass top off. Removed the failed burner and disconnected the four electrical leads. Removed the mounting tabs from the old burner and installed them on the new burner. Attached the electrical leads to the new burner and tightened with pliers. Reattached glass top and knobs, reinstalled in counter, clamped the electrical cable, flipped the breaker and tested. All good.

1. Turned of circuit breaker to stove.
2. Take two screws out of control panel, and lifted it up.
3. Lay panel on side and removed knob.
4. Flipped panel over and take several pic for reference of each wire and location on back of controller.
5, Flipped panel back over and take needle-nose players and unhooked each wire tab on back of controller.
6. Flipped panel back over and take two screws out that hold controller on front of panel.
7. Flip the panel back over and remove the old controller.
8. Position the new controller in the panel and install the the two screws back to secure it to the panel.
9. Attach wires back to new controller based on your pic taken. Verify correct location to pic.
10. Attached panel on back of stove. Make sure all wires are secured inside of the control panel.
11. Turn circuit breaker back on and verify the burner is working correctly.

Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!

Turn off breaker.
Lift cook top from counter.
Remove perimeter screws from glass cook top and remove glass.
Remove screws attaching control.
Replace control and leads.
Note: 4 of 5 lead attachment marking points matched old control - I had to guess the fifth. "P" on old was attached to "PC" on new. Attachment points on new were configured differently from old. The leads were just barely long enough to reach.
Replaced perimeter screws and cooktop.

Remove ten screws that attach top then remove top. Remove four screws holding switches in place and lift for access. remove two screws from switch. Record wire color for positions P L1 L2 for proper positioning on replacement switch. One wire was to short so had to make a two inch extension to complete the hookup. Reassemble and the burners work as original.

Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.

Turn off breaker removed cooktop from countertop . Removed Phillips screws remove glass top .Remove two screws holding switch & reinstalled

opened oven door and removed two 1/4 " screws from range top. lifted range top and propped open like a car hood with a 1" diam dowel rod. marked on new element the wire color locations from old element and removed wires. removed the two small screws and clips that hold the element to the range top and removed element. Matched where the mounting screws locate to the new element. Installed new element in reverse order.

Only filled this out so people know how easy it was to do business with this company and how fast I received my order even with snail mail. I would definitely order from them again