CVG316B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

I removed the screws that hold the escutcheon assembly in place and lifted it from the range top. I slipped the wire connectors from the old switch and removed the push nuts. Removing the push nuts was the most difficult part. I wedged a small screwdriver under them and made enough space to cut them off with wire cutters (DON'T CUT THE POLES THE PUSH NUTS ARE ATTACHED TO!). There may be an easier way to remove them, but I'm a rookie and don't know what the easier way would be.

I attached the wires back to the same poles on the new switch as they were positioned on the old switch and pushed on the push nuts that came with the new switch to hold it in place. There isn't much room to work with so I used a small socket from a socket wrench set to hold the new push nuts in place while I pushed them on. The push nuts I received with the new switch were really too small. I forced one on, but broke the other one. I bought another slightly larger one at my local hardware store and it worked great.

I reattached the escutcheon assembly and was back in business. Overall, it took me about 30 minutes.

Removed four screws; withdrew two burners; set two new burners in place; installed same old screws. That was it. When I turned them on to adjust the flame, they came on almost instantly and no adjustment was needed.

Wife loves the nice new look.

pull off old ,add new

Contacted customer service via email. Included a description of the problem as well as a photo that clearly showed that the Front Burner Assembly was, in fact, NOT an assembly when it arrived.

Nobody even acknowledged my email.
This was a $140 assembly.

Never again will use these guys for repair parts.

This wasn't a repair; it was a desperately needed replacement. I simply popped off my old knobs and put the new ones on in less than 1 minute. The new knobs took years off my beloved gas Jenn-Air stove.
The knobs arrived within two days of placing my order. Outstanding customer service. I will order from this company again and again.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

Turn off the power to the appliance. Remove the two screws from the control panel. Turn the panel over leaving all wires attached. Others have complained about the difficulty in removing the old push nuts and installing the new ones – this way worked quickly and easily for me: to get the old nuts off – take an awl and wedge it between the flat part of the push nut and the plastic mounting tab of the switch body. Pull the awl upwards until it is parallel with the mounting post. The push nuts will break, use needle nose pliers to remove the broken push nuts. Pull the old switch out noting the orientation. Place the new switch in place over the mounting posts. The new push nuts are not too small, it just takes some force to get them on (a good thing, it keeps the switch in place). Easy way to get the new nuts on: take a small nut driver that is the same diameter as the new push nuts on a straight handle, and use it to force the new push nuts onto the posts. Move the wires from the old switch to the new one. Turn the panel back over, replace the two screws, restore power to the appliance. It is a 10 minute job with the right tools.

removed 2 screws to access the ignitor. Discinnected the wires from the old ignitor and slid the old ignitor off. Installed the new ignitor and attached wires.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

The repair was super-easy, the hardest part was removing the old screws and switch. I slid a putty knife under the old switch and used that to pry up while I unscrewed the nuts. The new switch was a very snug fit on the two studs, which was nice, but the nuts included with the new switch were too small as-is. I could have driven a punch through to increase the diameter, but I kept my old nuts and re-used them instead.

Since the other three burners sparked, I traced the problem to the switch on the valve shaft. To replace, (after unplugging the power cord) I pulled off the knobs, removed the two screws on the valve cover (inside the downdraft vent) and pulled the switch up the shaft to remove. I transferred the spade terminals to the replacement switch, oriented and installed.

1. Turn off power to the cooktop and turn off the gas. This is extremely critical. 2. Remove the knobs and then the covering. Beneath will be the valve part you need to change. 3. Find a way to mark where all the wires go into the piece that sits over the valve (mine was white with a blue ring in the center). You will see four wires going into it. You can photograph it, or you can use tape and a sharpie to write where everything goes on the parts themselves. It is likely that they will become disengaged at some point during your repair, so the step is crucial. 4. Lift off the piece on top of the valve (the valve goes through the blue hole in the center of the white piece). Don't be afraid to give it a tug, as it can be slightly stuck. 5. Find a way to get underneath the large circular plate (mine was gold colored) beneath the valve in order to remove any screws that are holding the valve in place unseen below the surface. 5. Now back above the surface: disconnect the gas valve attached to the valve. 6. Switch out the valve to the new one and reverse these steps to install it. ****7. If you are unable to get beneath the plate where the valve is attached on the underside, no worries. Take the new valve and carefully unscrew the top two screws (need a special tool from a hardware store) and similarly take off the screws on top of the broken valve. Be very careful to remove the top of the old valve slowly enough to see exactly how the inside pieces have to be put together. Essentially, you will find a spring and a small ring with three notches. The small part of the spring goes on the bottom, the larger part of the spring faces upward, and on top of that goes the ring with the three notches aligned in a certain way that's very important so that when you put it back together not only will the valve depress properly but you will be able to change the fire from low to medium to high. Make sure you can depress the valve a little bit, if not you have to readjust the ring until it's in the proper position. 8. Turn on gas and power to be sure it works. 9. Close unit. ***Note: if any of your parts accidentally dropinto the opening, use a magnetized srcrewdriver to retrieve them.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

Be sure to turn power off; then follow the instructions on the older posts.