CDE851 Maytag Range - Instructions

The element plugged in to the cook- top.The cook -top was working moments after i unpacked the element. thank you.

Jim B.

"First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and removed the two wires." from the burned out element. I plugged in the new element, reinstalled the new element and, 10 minutes start to finish, the oven heats again.
So easy even I can do it. !!!

My spouse calls me Mr. Breakit--and she's right. I was delighted to read others' accounts that this was easy, but I wasn't sure. When the part arrived, we had 1 hour before company arrived. I took two screws out of the plate (tight--I had to apply a lot of torque), slid the old piece out, attached the new piece, put the screws back in. Voila! (Oh, yeh, do remember to turn the juice off.) We were "cooking" in about ten minutes. So easy a caveman could do it. And I did.

Serviceman took out broken glass by removing door and separating front of door from back of door. He carefully removed all broken glass Then replaced with new glass and fastened door together . He did repair in 20 minutes. Oven is like new. Thank you very much for still stocking this part that allows me to keep my oven repaired.

Opened the box and placed new cover over grill.

Since the motor is larger than the original, remove metal flange; shim one side of housing with 3 washers per screw and reseal..simple! Works great.

Remove modular element from cooktop,place upright on bench and remove sheet metal screws. Lift glass/rim subassembly from modular heating unit (screwdriver may be required to carefully pry glass/rim assembly from heating unit) as it may be a tight fit. Inspect exposed heating unit for any noticeable damage, clean any debris resulting from cooking spills, etc. Use caution in cleaning area around heating elements so as to not damage insulation. Install new glass/rim assembly using original screws. Do not overtighten screws as this may distort the sheet metal assemblies. Install in cooktop and test for proper function.

Opened the oven door and locked the spring hinges in the opened position with two 10p nails. Removed the oven door. I dismantled the component parts of the door. I then removed and replaced the broken glass unit,reassembled the door, slid the door onto the hinges, tightened two screws to lock the door in place, removed the 10p nails, closed the door----- and that was it. Less than one hour. The job was accomplished using only a Phillips screwdriver.

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.

The oven that was in out newly purchased house was a JennAir and over 20yrs old. Worked ok, but as with any heating element, the performance wanes over time. I decided to replace the baking and broiling element...and the oven door seal while I was at it. Everything went well, it was a simply remove/replace. Then I bumped the oven door where it was leaning up against the fridge waiting to be reinstalled. Down it fell on the tile floor. SMASH! Tempered glass EVERYWHERE. Got online with PartSelect and ordered a replacement (very reasonable price). It arrived in 2 days...just like the elements. Replacement was easy. Thanks to PartSelect for having the parts in stock and delivering them in record time!

Motor (Blower Motor Kit) Part Number: PS1569907
No instructions are included in the package from PartSelect. Disassembly from the main housing was relatively simple. I found that paying VERY careful attention to how the original motor was wired and mounted would pay off in correct re-assembly, conquering motor vibration and rubbing. Most of my project time was spent cleaning the rotating blade wheel from 20 years of grease build-up. On tools, I would have appreciated the inclusion, or availability as an accessory, of a long-stem correct-size allen wrench (used in removal of the fan blade wheel.) The job went well, and probably saved me $200 in service call and labor.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

First, I removed the two screws holding the element in place. I removed the element from the connector. I then removed the trim ring and drip pan. I unscrewed the retaining screw holding the connector and pulled out the connector about three inches and disconnected the two wires leading to from the old connector. I removed the old connector. I then connected the two wires leading from the new connector and fasten the connector to its retainer with a screw . I reinserted the drip pan and trim ring and plugged the new element into the connector. I turned on control knob to high and tested the element., which glowed red hot. Job completed and customer very well satisfied..

First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 5 inches so I could reach and pull off the wire clips from the old element. I then attached the wire clips onto the new element and pushed back the wires into the insulated area and when the back plate matched up to the screw holes, I re-inserted the screws and tighten them down. The oven works great.

Attached spring to damper, placed on existing 5" duct and secured. Used screwdriver to attach vent cover to damper.