ACO1520AB-PACO1520AB0 Amana Microwave - Instructions

Put s pot under were you take the screw out.If you drop it you can get it easy

Finding the part was the most difficult as this is a very old microwave. I spoke to a really nice lady and we figured out that even though it was not the exact dimensions of my previous film that it would certainly fit since it was just a little bigger that what I had. Once I got it lined up correctly, it was really easy to put on after I removed the backing and took off the old film which wasn't difficult either.

Unplug microwave! It's NOT necessary to remove microwave from above stove. Removed two Philips head screws on top front of unit to remove front grille. Removed one screw to remove control panel, letting it hang down. Found inline fuse in cabinet where line cord wires come in. Pulled out blown fuse with thumb and forefinger. Snapped in new fuse, replaced control panel and grille with the three screws. Plugged in the microwave. -Worked great! Good opportunity while grille was off to clean it and replace the charcoal filter inside the cabinet.

Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.

change light bulbs

Turn off power supply at breaker . Replace old bulb with new bulb .

screwed in new bulb

Opened Box and Replaced Part......No Problem!

We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place.
Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this.
The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

Husband replaced the bulb

Pulled unit out, pried the bottom plate off the unit. Mine was not screwed in, but designed to be pried off, and then replaced. That was a surprise, but not very difficult. Unscrewed the motor, unplugged the electric connection, replaced it with new part . Replaced the bottom plate and tested the machine.

The power on the microwave went completely out when I went to use it, but there was no power failure for the house or neighborhood. We removed the microwave from above the oven. Took out the screws on the sides and back of the microwave and slid the top back. The line fuse was located on top unobstructed, NOT behind the button panel like some microwave models. As the appliance is over 20 years old the line fuse was quite old. It was really hard to pry it out of its holder and actually broke. I used a vacuum to suck up the dust and glass and it was easier to get out the ends once the middle broke. Popped the new line fuse in, slid the top back on, put in the screws and put the microwave back in its compartment above the stove. Good as new!! We were about to spend money on a new microwave, but thankfully I came across this site. So happy I did!!

This repair was really easy. The part that took the most time was taking it down from it's compartment above the oven and putting it back up there once repaired.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Spouse just screwed in the new bulb and reinstalled the light cover plate with the two screws. Took under a minute. Works great.