91147692100 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.