62920237 Kenmore Range - Instructions

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

First we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After pulling it from the back of the oven we did not realize that the clips that held the wires could be slipped off the 'tongues' of the element. Therefor we thought we had to cut the wires - which we did. After realizing that the clips came off, we went to the store and bought a box of new clips, stripped a small portion of the plastic on the wire to expose the wire and put it in the new clips and crimped them. Then slipped the new clips onto the new element, replaced it and put the old screws back. You wouldn't need to buy new clips (not expensive) if you know ahead that they can be removed from the old element and slipped onto the new one. We were amazed at how quickly the element arrived in the mail. Have bookmarked this sight for future repairs.

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

I removed about 8 screws to disassemble the door to get the gasket in. This was an easy task. On the first use of the oven, it shattered one pane of the double glass door window. I think I installed it backwards since one pane is tempered glass, I believe. I installed the new window and am heating it up now - hope it doesn't break.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter.
As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping.
Removed old seal and put new one in its place.
Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one.
Put door back on the hinges and the job was done.
Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.

We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

Removed the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel, lifted the panel out and up to clear the uper part of the panel. Removed the screws from the left and right switches, which hold the bracket of the clock, marked the wires of the clock and removed the wires. Installed the new clock in reverse. The power to the range was off.

The hardest part of the repair was getting the old cruddy screws out of the old element. They were sort of "baked-in". Once we got the screws out the rest was really easy. Just inserted the element prongs & screwed the new ones in. Ordering & receiving the part was a snap...I would recommend your company to anyone. Thank you.

remove two screws, pull out element, diconnect two wires, toss old element,plug in wires to new element, replace two screws and viola- done

Now if you just sold faucet parts I'd be all set.

Unscrewed old cap, installed new

As described elsewhere. If the two retaining screws are rusty, order new ones with the element. They are expensive, so take them out and check before placing the element order. Save time and shipping costs.

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