11062332511 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to do the repair myself. Happily, I was able to and my dryer works like new ! I figure I probably saved about a 100 bucks doing it myself rather than calling out a repair man. Oh, did I mention I am female and didn't have to have a man do this for me. :)

I took a ¼ inch nut driver and removed the rear cover from the unit, and then used a continuity tester to determine which safety device was open. According to the schematic there was one non-resettable safety device in the heating circuit, and that was open. The kit that I ordered came with thermal cutoff and a thermostat. I replaced both parts and the unit now operates normally. While I had the dryer open I thoroughly cleaned the dust and lint from the unit and also the 4 inch vent pipe. I ordered this part on Friday morning and received it early Saturday afternoon.

First, remove the back panel of dryer which is about 10 screws. Then remove the 2 thermal switches, one is above the heating element and the other is where the hot air comes out. They are both really easy to get to and the pictures on Part Select.com are identical, so you can order the part first and then just "match them up" if you are not sure what to replace. Oops, the first step is to unplug the dryer.

I removed the four screws holding the
heating element, then I pulled the element out
and then put the new element in and hucked
the wires from the old element after I disconnected
them to the new element..no problem......

I ordered up a new heating coil. It was plug and play, real easy to do. Make sure to turn on the dryer with the before you put it back together to make sure the heating coils heat up. Be careful though, it will get real hot, so run for a second or two. Also, you may see a little smoke as the coil burns in, that should be fine. Once it is tested and works, let it cool off, then reattach it, put on the backplate and you are done!

1. UNPLUG 2.Undo 8 screws @ back of dryer. Locate heating element midway down on right about 6"x10" has three thermostat wires connected to it undo the 2 screws & 3 wires either order. You will need to pry up GENTLY on the thermostat on the old element. Replace themostat to new element and make a test run to make sure its running and HOTand repeat steps in reverse order...

My husband removed the old (2) thermostats..then installed the new ones...he said the only thing he needed was his battery run screwdriver, and it was really needed!
we are happy with the ordering, delivery, and the ease of replacement of our new parts. Thanks.

Took the back off with a cordless drill with an apex holder. I unplugged the old wires from the old heating element and plugged them into the new heating element. Put the back back on after testing it to make sure it worked and that was it. Since this element was in a housing it was really simple to reinstall the new one.

Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the thermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.

I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom was filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.

After tearing the back off by removing the numerous 1/4 inch hex screws, and locating the schematic in the compartment behind the dryer controls, I took a multimeter on the resistance setting and tested all the components I deduced were part of the heating circuit until i found the upper limit temp fuse of was open (i.e infinite , OL, how ever your meter will display this). I ordered the kit from here and upon installation found I had a different type of Thermistat assembly then the kit came with, however, the kit did anticipate this might happen and had "some" instruction on modifying the wire harness to accommodate the part. Essentially if you have this older style you will need to do some basic wire stripping and crimping to make it all work. While I am an electrical technician on aircraft, anyone should be able to follow the how-to video on this page(which deals exactly with what I had) and with the proper tools install this part.
I also cleaned out and inspected the rest of the dryer since I had it all open, including looking for burning on the heating element and inspection of the rest of the wiring harness. Finally removed the lint chute by removing the two screws located under the lint basket door, and the nuts holding it to the dryer frame and did a work over on it, finding a lot of compacted lint and debris inside. A can of compressed air helped a lot for this.

Very Very Easy all you need is a 1/4 inch nutdriver. 1st remove the screws from the back of the dryer. 2nd you will see a shaft like duct work. remove the 2 screws from this shaftway, lift out the old heating element and replace with the new element. Part select was right on target and fast. 2 days to recieve my order. I expected to have to buy a new appliance. Partselect made it possible to fix it like new for around $80.00

First I removed the two wires from the overheat fuse, then I removed the 1 screw and removed the fuse. I installed the new overheat fuse and attached with 1 screw, then reconnected the 2 wires. I attached the back cover with two screws and tested the dryer. It was working, so I finished attaching the back with the remaining screws and exhaust duct. Installation complete.
Note: Two weeks later I had to replace the fuse again because I had checked the duct pipe and exhaust chute, but not the bottom at the fan. Be sure to remove the flat exhaust duct and check for bulid-up at the bottom under the fan.

I watched the installation video on both parts before I purchased them and it was a piece-of-cake after that.