1065907890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

I spent several hours defrosting the unit. Making sure the vents were all defrosted and free of ice. The part replacement is fairly straight forward; remove the thermostat, cut two wires, reconnect the wires following color codes, attach to coil and restart. And, "Yippie!". Nothing. Zilch. Zero. Because I could not connect with the online repairman, I spent 40 bucks for nothing; problem was not resolved. Thanks for taking my money. I'm bummed and with just a little less money in my pocket. Never again will I ever purchase another Whirlpool product. Or buy from your outfit again (because of the over priced part). I replaced a 25 year old 'working' General Electric fridge for this junk that sat in the warehouse for four years before this was delivered to me in 2018 and sold to me as a "new" appliance. This was found out only when it crapped out and I needed to have it checked out for repair. Oh yea, I only had the comment section and the part recommendation to go by, and the latest comments are at least two years old. I'll be surprised if this even gets posted.

with vidio

When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.

This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.

I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.

I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

All food and drawers were removed from the freezer, including ice tray. The left side shelf brackets were removed to ease removal of the back panels which expose the the bi-metal defrost thermostat. Six screws to remove the large back panel, plus the shelf support rails needed to be loosened to remove the smaller upper panel. The bi-metal thermostat is mechanically clipped to the upmost coil of the condenser. The two wires must be cut and wires for the new thermostat spliced in. The wires were tinned with solder to insure a good connection, then twisted and crimped with an automotive end connector. With the smaller 22. 8 Cu. Ft. Refrigerator a lot of the work will have to be performed with one hand. The hardest problem here is diagnosing the malfunction correctly in the beginning. I was impressed that the replacement part was received in two days . . .

Just replaced the old Push-On Start Relay and it started to work again.

I replaced the relay started right up did fine for about 4 days. Came home from work I had lost everything in the freezer again.turned down the thermostat and back up and it started right up. 5 days later same thing again.

unplug freg.took everything out.pulled out shelves and pulled out back panel.their was my part i had to replace.

I'm a 65 year old widow on a limited SS income, so I needed to get my refrigerator fixed as cheaply as possible. Partselect's troubleshooting guides took me right to the problem. I ordered the part on a Friday and it arrived the next Tuesday. It probably took me a little longer than it would a repairman, but I did it myself with just a screwdriver and a nut driver and it only cost me $45 instead of the $200 plus it costs my daughter to have someone else replace hers two years ago. Always remember to unplug amy electrical device before removing the covers or attempting any repair. All I had to do was remove the lower back cover on the refrigerator and, using the partselect diagram, locate the casing that covered the start relay and the overload switch on the left side of the compressor. I popped the casing off with the screwdriver, pulled the relay off (it's sits on two prongs), and remove the red terminal wire from the relay. Installation of the new relay is the reverse steps of the removal. Thanks, Partselect! I will be doing business with you again if the need ever arises.

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

Turn off power to the frig. Remove the shelves and back brackets from the freezer, then with a 1/4" nut driver remove the nuts holding the rear metal panel in place. Once removed the defrost thermostat is right in front of you. You will have to clip the wires from the old t-stat because they are in a harness. Once clipped, strip the wires back, wire in the new t-stat, add wire nuts and put it all back together. Very easy job to do, works great. Thanks Parts Select, Mike.

Remove rear panel with 1/4 nut driver. Pop plastic cover on compressor. Pry off relay and two wires and reinstall. Nice and easy and back to full function :)

Unplugged it for a day listened to the ice melting on the inside and plug it in again. Decreased the temperature settings and it now seems to work fine. I will save the part in case I ever need it in the future.