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REPAIR > REFRIGERATOR > WILL NOT MAKE ICE

How To Fix A Refrigerator That's Not Making Ice

How To Fix A Refrigerator That's Not Making Ice

by Steve Ash

Arguably the hardest working appliance in the home, a refrigerator is something you can’t live without. If your fridge is not making ice, don’t give up – we can help. We’ve compiled a list of the most common parts that cause the refrigerator to not make ice. You can use this information to troubleshoot your own refrigerator and then enter your model number into the search box to find the right part that will fit your fridge. Searching with your model will also give you access to even more information about this symptom and instructions on how to install your repair part.
Water Fill Tubes
Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.
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- 30 - 60 minutes

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Water Inlet Valve
Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow. You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.
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- 15 -30 minutes

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Ice & Water Filter
If equipped, the Ice and Water filter in your refrigerator is responsible for removing any debris or contaminants from your water that may still remain after local water treatment. Most filters contain and are made up of carbon and fabric filter. Over time, the filter may become restricted and reduce the water flow to the ice maker, causing a symptom of little or no ice. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every 6 months but local water conditions may require that you replace more frequently.
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- less than 15 minutes

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Ice Maker Assembly & Replacement Ice Maker
If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

Most heat release ice makers will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points “T” and “H” to initiate a “test harvest”. The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a “U” shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points “L” and “N”. If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced.
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- Customers rate this repair as Easy

- 15 – 30 minutes

We have 2170 installation instructions

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