This halogen lamp bulb is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. If the light has burned out in your oven, replace it with this part. This is a 35 watt bulb. Replacing this bulb is fairly easy ...
This chrome oven rack is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. It measures 24 inches wide by 14 inches deep. This rack serves as a great replacement if your current rack is rusted, broken, or ...
This part is a replacement screw for your oven. It is made of black metal and is sold individually. This screw is approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and about 1/2 inch in length. It is designed to con...
Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.
It wasn’t the magnetron. It wasn’t the diode. It wasn’t just the fuse. It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!
