This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
$44.31
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Questions And Answers for PSHS6PGZBESS
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Alan
February 16, 2020
Can you tell me what the cubic foot size of this refrigerator is? The serial # is:Dz410412
I have looked all (inside and outside) and cannot find this information.Thank you
For model number PSHS6PGZBESS
Hello and thank you for writing.
This unit is 25.9 Cu. Ft. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Jaime
August 19, 2021
What part do i replace if my fridge doesn’t cool? Also what part would replace a freezer that stays at 25 degrees and doesn’t make ice cubes? Thanks...
For model number PSHS6PGZBESS
Hi Jaime,
Thank you for your question. If both your refrigerator and freezer sections are too warm, the part that fixes the issue the majority of the time is the temperature sensor. The sensor is a small capsule like device that is protected by a plastic shield and will vary in resistance depending on the temperature. The control board uses this information to turn on the compressor and fan circuits as well as to operate the damper control on some models. If a sensor becomes damaged or defective it may incorrectly signal the control board to turn off both the compressor and the fans and result in warmer than normal fresh food and freezer temperatures. Before inspecting and testing the temperature sensor, unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet. The thermistors are usually connected to the electronic control board. There is usually more than one and you will need to remove them from the refrigerator in order to test them. Before testing them, you will need to place the thermistors in ice water for 5 minutes in order to bring the temperature to 32 degrees F. The thermistors will produce different readings at different temperatures, and the suggested ranges below only apply to thermistors at a temperature of 32 degrees F. With the probes on the terminals and your multimeter set to Rx1, you should receive a reading of 16,600 ohms (+/- 5 percent). If you receive a reading outside this range, you will need a replacement temperature sensor or thermistor. If the sensors are fine, there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will also need to check the defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, the run capacitor and the condenser fan motor and blade. For information on how to test these parts, you will find it either under Free Repair Help or Instant Repairman on our website. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
The water dispenser makes a lot of noise and after a while the water stops running completely. If we wait a little bit the water starts flowing normally but after a few seconds it starts making the noise and the water stops. What could be the cause?
For model number PSHS6PGZBESS
Hello Anthony, thank you for writing. Both of the issues you described indicate that you need a new Ice and Water Filter, part number PS8746144 for your model refrigerator. I hope this helps!
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Michael
February 6, 2020
I replaced the auger in the dispenser, now it only dispenses crushed ice, no whole cubes. What did i install incorrectly?
For model number PSHS6PGZBESS
Hello, Thank you for your question. Here is some information to check.. 1. It is normal to get a slight amount of crushed or broken ice cubes before or while dispensing cubed ice. This is most common after crushed ice was used and you then select cubes. The remaining chips in the crusher blades or the bottom of the bucket get picked up as cubed ice is dispensing. 2. When cubed ice is selected, dispensing cubes requires energizing a lever behind the ice bucket to open a flap and allow whole cubes to come out. If an ice cube gets behind the ice bucket, this can prevent the lever from working. Remove the ice bucket and check for ice that may have fallen behind the bucket. 3. If no ice cubes are behind the bucket, try to dispense ice with the bucket removed. Shut the door, press the ice dispenser and listen for a loud snapping noise. If no snap is heard service will be needed. If you hear a snap, reinsert the bucket and try Cubed ice again. If still no cubes, then check for frozen ice in the bucket. We hope this helps.
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Aaron
August 11, 2022
Ice tray overflows when filling with water. I have already flushed the water lines, replaced the water inlet valve, and measured the house water pressure to be 58 psi.
For model number PSHS6PGZBESS
Hello Aaron, Thank you for the question. This could be an indication the Ice Maker is faulty and calling for too much water. We suggest checking the Fill cup to make sure it is not stuck or damaged. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
