This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This hinge is located on each side of the oven door. The hinges control the rate that the oven door opens and closes, and allows the door to stay open at an angle. This hinge can be used on either the...
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This broil element is found on the roof of the oven.
$191.49
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John
November 8, 2022
I have a Maytag double oven, model #MEW6627DDS. I bought it used with a complete kitchen I bought and installed in my home... Both ovens overheat. By a LOT, I adjusted the adjustment as far as it would go, and we are way beyond that... 350 goes well over 500. I suspect something got damaged, or unplugged during the move.... with BOTH ovens doing the same thing, it seems like it should be easy to diagnose, but I am clueless as to what the ovens "share" that could cause this...…
For model number MEW6627DDS
Hi John, thank you for the question. According to our research, we would suggest testing the Control board and the heating elements for continuity with a multimeter. If they are good, then we would recommend replacing the Temperature Sensor, part number PS1570174. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.
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