This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$27.50
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Fresh Flow Produce Preserver is made for your refrigerator to help keep produce fresh for longer by absorbing the chemical, ethylene, that causes your fruits and vegetables to ripen quicker. Your prod...
$27.45
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.21
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This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$35.26
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This genuine OEM replacement part is a water filter for your fridge or freestanding ice maker. The filter is used to remove contaminants and particles from the water, to ensure a clean and fresh taste...
$96.42
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This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$16.23
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This ice maker assembly is for refrigerators. Ice maker assembly contains the complete ice maker and housing. The assembly may include multiple parts; refer to your parts diagram for a complete list o...
$151.23
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Sold Individually. - * Part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original.
$31.14
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Questions And Answers for KFIS29BBMS03
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Alan
February 8, 2020
I bought this fridge used just over 3 months ago and it worked fine for a month. It then was warm in fridge but freezer was fine. It had a 3 month warranty so i called a service guy and he replaced the evaporator fan and a sensor. It worked okay for 2 months, but the problem returned and through your website i bought and replaced the synchronizing motor and it worked okay for about a week now fridge is warmer than it should be. Could the defrost heater be bad?
Thanks Alan
For model number KFIS29BBMS03
Hello Alan,
Thank you for your question. Yes, it is likely the defrost heater under part PS11738607 for your model that would need to be replaced. We hope this helps.
(po code displays) on the refrigerator .I have unplugged but did not fix the issue. i’m not sure is the part that i need to fix this issue is the power control board or the main control board or if it is something else .
For model number KFIS29BBMS03
Hello Brandon, thank you for your question. During the failure, the power control board should be tested to ensure that it is sending the proper voltage. At the 4 wire connector, pin 1 to pin 2, and then pin 3 to pin 4 will need to be tested for 120VAC. From there, the 6 wire connector would be tested for 14VDC. The red probe of a meter would be used on pins 1, 2, and 3, and the black probe on 4, 5, and 6. Using this method, the test would be from pin 1 to 4, pin 2 to 5, and pin 3 to 6. If any of these voltage readings fail, the voltage at the wall outlet would need to be tested for proper voltage, and if the voltage is correct, then the power board has failed. If the voltages test good, then the issue would be the main control based on the information provided. I hope this helps.
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I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Purchased new motor from Partselect.com. When it arrived it came with a new rubber washer that fitted on top of new motor that was not on old motor, that how water got into old motor. However, the instruction sheet did not give info on how to access the proper way to the motor that is the door. Not wanting to damage the freezer door assy. called in a tech who made it look easy, but even he had a little problem locating access panel that was directly under the motor in the freezer side of the door. After that it was a piece of cake.
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
