JTP25SH6SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

First, disconnect the power from the electrical box, not just turn off that oven. specially if you have a double oven. Just turn one off is not enough.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out slowly about 2 inches to expose the connectors, and then disconnected the two wires by holding the wire (female) connector by one plier and pull the element (male) connector out with another plier. Then, insert the new element connectors, and push the wire back into wall then fasten the element with 2 screws.

I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.

After turning off the breaker to cut power to the oven, I opened the oven door and, using the PartSelect exploded diagram as a guide, I removed 3 screws from the underside of the control panel - I was then able to slide the panel up and out to remove it. Leaving all of the control wires (especially the ribbon) connected to control panel, I saw the fan assembly mounted to the rear of the control box.

I noted the position of the two attached wires - black on top (or left), white on bottom (or right). Using a nutdriver with an extension bar, I unscrewed 4 screws holding the assembly in place. I removed the old fan and installed the new fan in its place. It was necessary to bend the new fan's legs out a bit to get them to line up with the holes. I reconnected the wires as mentioned above, then reinstalled the control panel.

I tested the oven by turning the breaker back on and letting the oven heat up to 450 degrees. The fan turned on as expected. After the oven cooled off, I reinstalled the 3 screws to secure the control panel.

removed two phillips screws. Unplugged electrical connections replaced unit from PartSelect. They sent holder cover and new bulb (surprise). Great store with great directions.

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.

Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

Attatched trim bracket to cabniet with screws that by the way were not supplied then attached plastic trim to bracket

Disconnect the Power to the Oven

1. Took out the baking racks
2. With a nut driver, removed the two machine screws holding the baking element.
3. Pulled the baking element out 3-4 inches and using pliers, removed the wires from the back of the broken element.
4. Reattached the wires to the new element and reversed process.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.