This is a replacement O-ring for the drum bearing retainer on your dryer. The drum bearing is found at the back of the dryer drum. The O-ring is designed to create a seal on the drum bearing. The O-r...
This is a duct felt seal for a dryer. The duct felt seal allows the front-load dryer drum to glide smoothly on the front panel. Your dryer will not function properly if the drum felt seal is compromis...
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Donald
January 20, 2020
How can i disconnet buzzer signal
For model number HTX24EASK0WS
Hello and thank you for writing.
Unplug the dryer. Locate the wiring diagram on the back of the dryer and review it to find the location of the buzzer. If your dryer doesn't have a diagram -- it may be folded and attached in a flat plastic packet to the back panel.
Remove the screws on the console with a screwdriver. The console is the control panel on top of the dryer where the dials are located.
Open the console carefully. Locate the buzzer inside the console. In most cases, it will be connected to two wires.
Pull one of the wires out of the buzzer to disconnect it. Wrap the end of the wire with electrical tape. Both wires can be pulled and individually taped, but that shouldn't be necessary.
Close the console and replace the screws. Plugin the dryer.
We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Robert
January 30, 2020
New dryer not heating, on any cycles.
For model number HTX24EASK0WS
Hi Robert. Most likely this is a faulty heating element part number PS8756702. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
Dryer timer dial is hard to turn and dryer will not power on
For model number HTX24EASK0WS
Hello Dionne, thank you for your query. We have found that the dryer timer uses a small motor to turn electric contacts on and off. If the timer is bad, there will be no electric spark and your dryer will not start. You may need to replace the timer, part number PS11763073, to fix the issue. Glad to be of assistance!
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Chris
May 22, 2023
I have clothes getting caught between the drum and the frame. There is a small gap at the top of the opening, and articles continue to get wedged in there and many clothes are getting damaged...nearly every load we run. I've pulled out a piece of torn rag that was wedge up in there, with pliers, thought that would fix the small gap, but it's still happening.
For model number HTX24EASK0WS
Hello Chris, thank you for reaching out. To fix the issue, you may need to replace the drum felt seal, part number PS12722961. The duct felt seal allows the front-load dryer drum to glide smoothly on the front panel. If this is torn, the cloth may get caught between the drum and the panel. We hope this information is useful!
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Gary
February 19, 2020
The dryer will come in as long as your push the start button only. I heard a loud pop and the dryer quit working.
For model number HTX24EASK0WS
Hello Gary, thank you for your question. That is likely an issue with the push to start switch or one of the thermostats. We would recommend testing the thermostats to determine if they have failed. You can also use a multimeter to test the push to start switch. If those parts are tested and are find the issue could be with the motor relay or the timer. I hope this helps.
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Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on. This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
