Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This is a water pressure switch hose, also known as the air dome tube, for your washer. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The hose transports water to your water pressure switch, s...
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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Pascal
July 28, 2021
Hello. When i select a water level on my washer (regardless of the level), the water does not rise to the correct level. Always about 3 inches lower than before ... what is strange is that if i add water with a boiler while it is filling, the washer will fill to a higher level .. .. ??? is the pressure switch? and how does automatic filling work? with the same switch? thank you. pascal
For model number GTWP2250D0WW
Hello Pascal, Thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking both the water inlet valve, water pressure switch hose and the pressure switch for your model. You can test the water inlet valve and the pressure switch with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter works, there are videos on our site to assist you. Automatic filling depends on a water level switch or pressure switch. As the washer fills, water enters the tube from the bottom and increases pressure in the airspace within the tube. When the pressure reaches the critical point, the switch shuts off water flow to the tub. Hope this helps.
The washer leak from were the water suply comes in to washer not the hose to get the tub full inside the tub gets full of water
For model number GTWP2250D0WW
Hello Amparo, thank you for getting in touch. We believe your washer is having this problem because of the water inlet valve, part PS3652834, and the fill tube, part number PS4704246. You can do a continuity test for the water inlet valve and replace it if it is found to be defective. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Hello Tim, Thank you for the question. Very sorry but PartSelect.com does not have the size or age of the appliances, just the parts list. I would recommend contacting the manufacture. Hope this helps!
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After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!
