Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This is a water pressure switch hose, also known as the air dome tube, for your washer. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The hose transports water to your water pressure switch, s...
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2 questions answered by our experts.
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Alam
November 26, 2019
My washer turns itself off when it reaches the rinse cycle. Any idea what it could be that causes this?
For model number GTWN5450D1WW
Hello Alam, thank you for inquiring. This is an issue with the Lid Switch with Wire Harness, part number PS1482372 for your model washer. Good luck with your repair!
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John
February 1, 2020
What should i look for if the cloths are still very wet after final spin cycle
For model number GTWN5450D1WW
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty or loose drive belt PS1482278 and/or possibly a damaged agitator PS11736866 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!