The Rack Slide End Cap is a white one-inch plastic part which replaces the end cap for your dishwasher rack, preventing your rack from sliding too far. If you find the dish rack is causing the door to...
This push on nut is for your dishwasher or refrigerator. As the name suggests, it pushes into place, rather than being screwed in. It is approximately half an inch in diameter and is made of stainless steel.
This pump and motor kit replaces many old style pump and motor kits that were manufactured since 1970. The instructions are included with this kit to help you to make it adaptable to your dishwasher.
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This drain hose is an OEM, manufacturer-approved replacement part for your dishwasher. The drain hose filters out the wastewater from the dishwasher. If there is a hole in it, water will leak out of y...
This water inlet valve is specially designed for those dishwashers that fit under the counter from 1974 To Present. The valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or ...
I had never done work on my dishwasher - I was a rookie in this area. Turns out the work itself was quite simple. Pulled the dishwasher out, turned it over, and was able to easily replace the motor and pump assembly. The drain tube was also an easy replace. A couple key notes:
1. I also purchased a new drain solenoid and impeller kit. Note that both of these items are already included in the Motor and Pump kit replacement. There is no need to by both, now I have extras.
2. The end of the drain tube has to be trimmed if you are routing the drain tube to an air gap mounted on your kitchen sink. You have to cut the large diameter end of the tube to get to the narrow portion that will fit on your air gap.
3. The first cycle you run with the new motor/pump assembly is noisy. When you first fire it up the components in the pump are all dry, and they squeal until the water gets to them. I initially thought I had done something wrong, but once the water started flowing all the peculiar sounds cleared up.
This was a fairly simple repair. After disconnecting power to the dishwasher and removing the panel below the door, first had to remove a retainer C clip from the gate valve shaft. Then disconnected the linkage from the gate valve solenoid, removed two return springs and slid the gate valve contol arm off the shaft. Then removed the solenoid bracket that was fastened to the housing by 2 screws. This allowed access to the push on nut on the valve shaft. Removed the old push on nut which exposed the leaking seal. Removed the bad seal, then moistened and carefully slid on and seated the new drain valve shaft seal. Affixed new push on nut. Reinstalled the above mentioned parts that were removed. Problem solved - no more leak. Total cost $18.81 for factory GE parts plus $6.95 shipping. Thank you PartSelect.
1. Remove lower cover skirt. 2. Shut of water at undersink valve. 3. Unplug power cord or turn off circuit breaker. 4. Disconnect water supply line from fill valve. 5. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve. 6. Remove the 2 valve mounting bracket screws. 7. With loose valve in hand, rotate to gain access to allow release of outlet hose clamp for hose removal. 8. Remove brass fitting from old valve and install on new valve. Use teflon tape on the pipe threads only.
