This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one s...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
Also known as a mullion heater. This mullion rail is white in colour. The door mullion rail creates an airtight seal between the doors on a French door refrigerator.
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
$10.28
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Questions And Answers for GFSS2HCYCSS
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Kandis
May 15, 2023
How do I remove the plastic light casing to replace my refrigerator light?
For model number GFSS2HCYCSS
Hi Kandis, thank you for reaching out. You need to follow the following instructions to replace the light in the refrigerator:
1. Unplug the power to the appliance.
2. Open the refrigerator door to locate the light shield.
3. To remove the light shield, grasp the shield at the back and pull out to release the tabs at the back.
4. Rotate the shield down and then forward to release the tabs at the front of the shield.
5. After replacing the appliance bulb with one of the same or lower wattage, replace the shield.
6. Plug the refrigerator back in.
We hope this information helps!
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Bruce
December 7, 2019
Where is the water filter located at??
For model number GFSS2HCYCSS
Hello Bruce and thanks for writing.
For your convenience, we have attached the link to our video with repair instruction. We hope this helps. Good luck with your repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UerVcdQXJ_Y
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Pete
January 15, 2024
The refrigerator & Freezer are working O.K. temps are good.
The condenser fan motor doesn,t stop running. Compressor goes on & off as normal.. What controls the condenser fan? Is there a thermistor ? Do i need a new circuit bd ?
For model number GFSS2HCYCSS
Hi Pete, thank you for your inquiry. Based on our research, the control board controls the condenser fan. We would suggest replacing the control board, part number PS2371164, to fix the issue. Glad to be of help!
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Michael
May 12, 2023
There is water in the ice maker tray even though ice is being made. This is causing all the ice to fuse together and make solid sheet of ice. The doors have been kept closed. It is almost like the ice is being made, then slowly melting or water is dripping in the tray.
For model number GFSS2HCYCSS
Hello Michael, thank you for writing in. First ensure the home's water pressure is no too low, as this can cause the Water Inlet Valve PS2340443 not close all the way. If there is anything jammed around the icemaker, it may not cycle properly and drip causing clumps. The ice maker may get stuck in the middle of a cycle or overflow with ice or water. Inspect and remove anything that may be found. Also, ensure that the ice bucket is cleaned in between cycles. We are pleased to have been able to help.
Looking for shelf that the crisper drawers slide into
For model number GFSS2HCYCSS
Hi Carolyn, thank you for reaching out. We have researched and found that the crisper drawer cover frame, part number PS2577944, supports the crisper drawer and holds the shelf that covers the crisper drawer. We hope this is what you were looking for!
The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-help sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)
The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.
In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.