This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This newer-style terminal block kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped wires with terminals, two ceramic wire nuts, a heat shrinking tube, and a mounting screw.
This surface burner knob is two inches in diameter. It is black in color and has white lettering denoting the temperature range. This knob also has a metallic trim around its perimeter. Plus, this kno...
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
The Job didn’t take very long at all. I pulled the unit out and unplug it before I started the repair. I had to remove the back two access cover plates to get to the two wire leads that connect the broiler. I don’t believe there was enough wire to be able to do it all from the front side. Next I disconnected the two wires that connected it while remembering what color goes to the correct side (just incase this does matter). After removing the wires I moved on to remove the element with a Philips screwdriver. The new part already had the hangers on it so I reused the old screws and installed the new element. Next I reconnected the wires in the back and re-installed the back panels. I plugged it up and it works as good as new now. This was definitely a lot cheaper to fix this myself than hire a repairman.
