This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
$35.54
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The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$10.20
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A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
$38.04
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
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This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
$8.44
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Also known as Main Outer Tub Seal. This part helps to prevent leaking from the bottom of the tub.
$7.34
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Questions And Answers for ATW4475VQ0
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James
November 14, 2021
Where is the lid switch located?
For model number ATW4475VQ0
Hello James, Thank you for the question. The Washer Lid Switch is located at the back corner, normally left side under the cabinet top. We hope this helps!
Hello Greg, thank you for reaching out. To fix the issue, we would recommend checking the water level pressure switch, part number PS3408149. It helps determine the level of water in the washer. If it is faulty, the control board will not receive a signal to turn on the water inlet valve. Glad to be of help!
How do i remove the agitator? The directions for the model atw4475xq0 are similar, but it's not exactly like my vq0. Thanks!
For model number ATW4475VQ0
Hi Heidi,
Thank you for your question. We have included a link to a video from our YouTube Channel that you may reference on how to replace the agitator in your washer. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
I'm not getting any cold water into washer and it won't rinse since it will only rinse in cold. I've replaced the hoses and checked the cold water screen but nothing was in the screen. Could this be the water inlet valve?
For model number ATW4475VQ0
Hello Angela, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the water inlet valve and the temperature switch to fix your issue. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you.
So nothing on the agitator section moves. The basket will spin and drain. Thanks in advance.
For model number ATW4475VQ0
Hello Robert, Thank you for the question. This could be an indication the Washer Control Timer is defective and not starting the Wash Cycle and skipping that cycle. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unbolted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
I removed the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. The new switch drops right in. I had a little trouble getting it in until I realized the washer lid had to be open. A little awkward but once it's in you can shut the lid and then I reattached the wire from the control panel and screwed in the grounding wire. Pretty easy. $20 for the part (with shipping) and 15 minutes. Way cheaper than a repairman.
