This surface element is made for under glass set-ups and supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. It has an outside diameter of approximately 7 inches (1500 watts), and is a genuine OE...
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now. The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work: Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2 Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch. Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe. Good Luck
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Turned off power to unit. Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws holding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact. Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.
Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.
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