This is an 8-inch drip bowl for your range or cooktop. It is made of porcelain and is black in color. Place the drip pan under your burner to catch food that may drip or spill while you cook. It is 10...
This drip bowl is a genuine OEM replacement part for your stovetop. It is black in color, made of porcelain, and six inches in diameter. To replace the drip pan, you simply need to remove the burner e...
This element has looped terminal ends and comes with a black medallion center. This element is a genuine OEM replacement part, has looped terminal ends, comes with a black medallion center, and fits m...
This is used as the "floor" of the oven cabinet.
Note: Does not come with rivets or screws. Must be purchased locally.
$177.57
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 970-598421
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
4 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Reto
November 2, 2023
The two 6” elements on my stove top started acting up. I looked at the element switch’s and one of them had been arcing and actually started melting the switch. I’ve looked for a replacement but everything I’ve seen doesn’t look like the switch I have. 3 of the switches are smaller and look the same, the only difference is the two switches that are failing have an A on them , as supposed to the 8” switch which has a B. the 4th switch is larger and has the metal switch plate exposed . It is an old stove and I can’t actually find the model # , there’s one that’s very close but still one number off. If I can just replace the 2 failing ones that would be ideal. Thank you.
For model number 970-598421
Hi Reto,
Thank you for your question. The part number for the 6-inch burner switch is PS1145039. We hope this helps!
Both element on and hot surface lights keep on despite turning the stove of
For model number 970-598421
Hi Harinder,
Thank you for your question. If 2 of your stovetop burners and the indicator lights stay on when they are supposed to be off, then the there is a contact stuck in one of the burner switches and you will need to check them to see which one is causing the issue. To verify if it is the switch that is causing the issue, take a surface element that is the same size and plug it into the receptacle. If the burner does not turn off, then the issue is the switch. If the switch is fine, then the surface element has shorted out and it will need to be replaced. You may also test these parts with a multimeter to verify if they have continuity. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.
