This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. This oven temperature sensor, for ranges, works together with the oven control board to measure and regulate the oven temperatur...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the ...
My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.
First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.
I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.
There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.
Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.
The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do: ) Move oven to get to the back panel ) Disconnect oven from power ) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off ) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off ) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly ) Screw the new motor in place ) Replace back panel ) Power on Oven DONE!