This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant, and installation screws.
$71.08
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This dryer lint screen is for laundry centers.
Dryer lint screen captures lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing from the dryer.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manual when installing this part.
$66.12
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The upper felt seal for your dryer is attached to the top edge of the drum support area, and is held there by a high temperature adhesive. It creates a seal where the dryer door opens and closes, so t...
$25.04
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This high limit thermostat has a limit of 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Meaning that it will cut out when the internal dryer temperature reaches 260. This thermostat cuts back in when the temperature drops ...
$119.16
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This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating. This part is located in the blower housing.
$63.58
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This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
$16.47
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Questions And Answers for 41761723510
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Sara
June 15, 2021
So my dryer works great, my washer on the other hand will not spin out. I don't believe it is my lid switch because it does lock when started. It does everything else but doesn't suck the water out and spin. I tried putting it into diagnostics many times, not sure what I'm doing wrong but I'm unsuccessful. My boyfriend looked at it briefly, he doesn't know what he was even looking at and said that the pump was bad. Please help I cant afford to buy a new one.
For model number 41761723510
Hello Sara, Thank you for the question. If the washer can not spin then it will not drain. We suggest testing the motor. You will need to be testing for resistance from pin 1 to pin 2, pin 2 to pin 3, and pin 1 to pin 3. Each should measure resistance between 60 to 80. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.
First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.
Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.
For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.
Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.
When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.