Terminal Block Kit

Hi Robin, Thank you for your question. If the burner is not working correctly, the issue is the burner switch that controls it and you will need to test it with a multimeter to verify it is working correctly. If it is not you will need to replace it. An infinite switch allows the user to set the heat from low to high and everywhere in between, hence the name "Infinite." This switch differs from a "Low-Medium-High" switch, which provides only three heat settings. The infinite switch uses a bimetal switch and physically moves through the process of heating and cooling, causing the main switch contacts to open and close and controlling the power applied to the heating elements.Typically, when an infinite switch malfunctions, the surface element will not heat, or it will remain on high in every position. Before repairs or testing can begin, you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!. Next, depending on your appliance type/model, access the infinite switch using one of the following methods: For most standard models, remove the back panel. On models with front-mounted controls, the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws and tilt the control panel, being careful not to let the wires disengage from the components. For models with a removable backsplash, simply lift the backsplash, rest it on the cooktop and remove the screws to access the components. If you are working on an eye-level range or wall oven, remove the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be located under the front of the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, tilt the control panel towards you. Some models will require that you remove the rear panel and front panel before work can begin. If the front control panel is glass, remove the screws securing the trim that holds the glass in place. Test for continuity between the switch contacts: Remove all wires from the switch terminals. (Remember to label them!) Set the infinite switch on high and place your ohmmeter on the L2, H2, P and H1 terminals to check for continuity. If there is no continuity between L1 and H1 or between L2 and H2, the infinite switch is defective. If there is no continuity between P and H1, the indicator light circuit is defective. Remove the infinite switch by removing the screws or nuts that hold it in place and install a new infinite switch by following the disassembly instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals. REMEMBER YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS - USE EXTREME CAUTION!!! I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Hi Doug, Thank you for the question. The element can still be defective without physical damage. If the top element still comes on when in the broil setting, I suggest replacing the Bake element. Good luck with the repair!

Hi Jeff, Thank you for your question. There are only a few parts that you would need to check to see if they are working. You should test your bake and broil elements, you should also test your temperature sensor as well. You can test all of these parts with a multi meter. If they are all working then it would be your electronic control board that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Hello Guicho, thank you for your question. Yes, this kit does come with the burner terminal block. The other terminal block is not for the burner but for the unit itself where the power cord comes into the unit. I hope this helps!

Hello Scott, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

Hi Rebecca, Thank you for your question. I have linked the information to the LP conversion kit down below for you. It does come with instructions on how to install it. It is recommended that you follow the instructions that come with the kit. If you are not comfortable doing this repair, contact a certified technician to install the kit for you. First you will remove the bottom drawer of your appliance. Press in on the tabs that are on the rails to remove the drawer. Then you will remove the protective cap of the regulator. You will then have to unscrew the metal cap. Once you have the cap out, all you have to do is turn it around when screwing it back into place with the protective cap. Your oven burner has an adjustable orifice. You will have to use a wrench to adjust it. Turn the orifice counter clockwise until it bottoms out, then you will turn it approximately 1 and 1/2 turns. Turn your oven on and check the flames. You want to see blue flames only. If you have flames with yellow tips, you need to adjust your oven burner orifice some more. Put your drawer back on. To change the cooktop burner orifices, remove your grate, burner cap, and your burner head to reveal the old orifice. Each burner cap will have a letter underneath of it that will indicate which orifice you will have to put in that spot. Look at your instructions sheet for matching the orifices to the correct burner. Be sure to keep your natural gas orifices just in case you may need them again. Good luck with your repair.

Hi Robert, Thank you for your questions. We are sorry to hear that this happened. If the surface element exploded, the terminal block may resolve this issue from happening again. There are also some other things that you will need to check. Check the wires responsible for providing power to the element. If the wires become loose they can cause sparks. Large sparks coming from the wires can sometimes cause the element to explode. If the wiring and the element socket are fine, then the cooktop may be defective and it will need to be replaced. If the element was wearing out, then it also could have caused the explosion. Worn coils sometimes develop bubbles or cracks. When you see this, it is time to replace the element. It is important to inspect your stove on a regular basis for signs of wear or damage. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair and if you have any questions, please let us know.

Hi Larry, we can't be 100 percent sure but it is likely the control module needs replaced. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!

Hello Ed, thank you for inquiring. This is most likely due to a faulty temperature sensor, or Probe, part number PS12724046 for your model range. You can test it with a multi-meter. At room temperature it should read at about 1100 ohms of resistance to be functioning properly. You may also want to consider the Electronic Clock Timer, part number PS1528267 for your range as the cause. Good luck with your repair!

Hello Victoria, thank you for your question. Yes, the block PartSelect Number PS470125 is compatible with your specific unit. Good luck with your repair!