Product Description
Flame Sensor Specifications
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.
How Buying OEM Parts Can Save You Time and Money
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Not Heating
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Frigidaire, Kenmore, Gibson, Kelvinator.
Part# 5303281135 replaces these:
AP2142636, 3574, 00635993, 08001684, 08015393, 08015688, 3281135, 635993, 75303281135, 8001684, 8015393, 8015688, F000078913, F078913-000, F078913000, F78913, FL00078913, G078913-000, Q000600651, Q600651
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Anthony M - September 20, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
I have never worked on a gas appliances so it was a bit intimidating, but in the end it was fairly simple and not that complex. The part fixed the issue the old flame sensor had corroded around the river. And heat was intermittent with the dryer. I also replaced coils they cheap to buy so I updated them as well
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.2 / 5.0, 7 reviews.
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dryer won't stay hot, gas smell
Pulled unit out from wall to access back panel. Top needs to be removed to get to the screws that hold on the front panel and door. These need to be removed to get to the valve and burner.
Once your in, the sensor, thermostat, and igniter are right up front. Sensor and thermostat were easy, the igniter breaks very easily...how do I know? Cause I broke the one I bought and had to get a new one.
I also replaced the coil set for the gas valve, because I had read that they can go bad and cause a gas fume smell. The coils are cheap, so you may as well as do them at the same time.
Anyway, once the repair was complete, I reassembled the unit and hooked up the vent.
Runs like new, and the clothes dry quickly.
Once your in, the sensor, thermostat, and igniter are right up front. Sensor and thermostat were easy, the igniter breaks very easily...how do I know? Cause I broke the one I bought and had to get a new one.
I also replaced the coil set for the gas valve, because I had read that they can go bad and cause a gas fume smell. The coils are cheap, so you may as well as do them at the same time.
Anyway, once the repair was complete, I reassembled the unit and hooked up the vent.
Runs like new, and the clothes dry quickly.
Other Parts Used:
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Dirk from Sonoma, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Gas flame turns off after a while. No more heat.
Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.
The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.
This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.
This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.
The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.
This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.
This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.
Other Parts Used:
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Giuseppe from San Francisco, CA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Dryer would not ignite
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
Other Parts Used:
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David from Murrieta, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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no heat in the dryer
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.
Other Parts Used:
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Joy from Lakeville, MN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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No heat to dry clothes.
There was a lot of screws. And I cleaned everything well. The one part was bad so I replaced them all to make sure it'll last.
Other Parts Used:
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James from SAGINAW, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Flame would come on and go out,and little or no heat
Unhooked power,shut off gas, pulled top cover off,two Philips screws one on each side hold the front panel in.took belt off, pulled drum,than change out, flame sensor,M coils,and igniter,be careful igniter breaks very easy,I broke my new one so had to use my old one so really the problem with no heat was either the Mcoils or the flame sensor
Other Parts Used:
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Gary from Columbus, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The igniter glowed red and the gas did not come on !
Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again
Other Parts Used:
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stefan from alpena, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Jordan Kopanidis
January 17, 2018
1. Igniter ps975823. This is unreasonably expensive part. How to test it to be sure it is ok or needs replacement (oms? Other test?). 2. Safety thermostat ps474188. Same question as no.1
For model number AGQ6000CES0
Hello Jordan, Thank you for your inquiry. We base our prices on what we have to pay the manufacturers for the parts. To test the igniter and safety thermostat with a multimeter, set the selection to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance. Make sure the meter is calibrated. For the ignitor touch the probes to the terminals, the meter reading for continuity should be between 50 and 400 ohms of resistance. For the safety thermostat, it should be tested at room temperature and you should touch the probes to the outer terminals. The reading should be around 0 ohms of resistance. Hope this helps!
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Tom
December 11, 2017
Gas dryer will initially fire up correctly, shut off Flame when up to temp, but when trying to re light to heat dryer back again, the ignitor glows good and after approx. A minute the ignitor turns off, no Flame. I have also just replaced the control thermistor, but it did not correct the issue. I am now suspecting the Flame sensor. I think if bad solenoid coils, it would not heat up initially. What do you advise? To test this Flame sensor, what is the ohms for a good unit?
For model number FGQBB30DS0
Hi Tom, Thank you for the question. You can test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they read closed for continuity. Hope this helps!
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Bob
February 26, 2024
My dryer has two issues:
1) When I spin the dial to change settings (e.g., heavy duty, normal) the dial spins but the light stays on heavy duty.
2) When I use the manual buttons to set temperature and "very dry" it still doesn't completely dry the clothing. I have to run it a few times to get the clothes dry.
For model number AGQB7000ES0
Hello Bob, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, the issue is most probably with the electronic control board, part number PS12728776. It manages the functions of the dryer such as drying time and temperature. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
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Maximino
June 27, 2019
Tengo este modelo de lavadora y he probado los termostatos y la lectura está bien.El control de llamas le lectura esta bien y cuando enciendo la secadora se queda encendidas y no hace pausas.Que puede ser?
For model number WGR211ES0
Hola Maximino, gracias por la pregunta. En la mayoría de los casos, si la secadora no se apagó después de terminar el ciclo, es un temporizador defectuoso, Número de selección de pieza: PS462363. Busqué la parte y aparece como Ya no está disponible / Descontinuado. No hay sustituciones de partes en la lista. Mi sugerencia aquí sería llamar al fabricante y ver si pueden proporcionarle una sustitución para estos números de pieza. ¡Espero que esto ayude!
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Samuel
November 8, 2019
Dryer is running good buy Flame don't glow i took test it work but no glow why?
For model number Fflg3911qw1
Hello Samuel,
Thank you for your question. If the sensor has no glow but the its still functioning, and there is no other issues, the light might just be malfunctioning which is why it isn't glowing, and there shouldn't be any problems leaving it be. If you wanted the light to be fixed, you would need to replace the sensor itself under part PS459818 for your model. Hope this helps!
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Iawata
February 4, 2023
How would I test the flame sensor?
For model number 417.71712511
Hello Lawata, thank you for reaching out. You can use a Multi meter to test the Sensor. Set the meter on the lowest setting for Ohms of resistance. Remove the Sensor from the appliance and touch the probes to each terminal. If there is no Continuity the Sensor will need to be replaced. We hope this solves your problem!
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LUIS
September 8, 2023
HI, I HAVE A GAS DRIER, WHEN OPEN TE DOOR THE DRIER NOT TURN OFF AND IF PUT SOMETHING BY TEMPERATURE NEVER TURN OFF. THANKS
For model number WGR211ES0
Hello Luis, thank you for reaching out. If the dryer does not turn off when the door opens, you may need to replace the door switch, part number PS2330879, to fix the issue. Safety thermostat shuts off the heating element when the dryer overheats. If the dryer is overheating, you may need to replace the safety thermostat, part number PS474188, to fix the issue. Glad to be of help!
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS459818
Manufacturer Part Number: 5303281135
Manufacturer Part Number: 5303281135
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