Drain Pump

read about the problem ordered the part and then installed

I was about to buy a new washer but thought I'd give this a go. I'm about average with mechanical things and good with electrical. The washer would work great for 10 loads then suddenly we'd come in and it wouldn't have drained. We would turn it to "spin and drain" and that would take care of it. Then it started happening more. And, since we moved, the water was always hotter than we were setting it for. I think the cold water shut entry valve was failing.

Unplug the washer. Pull off the front panel there are two clips 1" below the top, where the panel and the top meet. Slide a 1" putty knife about 5" from the right edge and push to disengage the retainer. Ditto left side. The pump is exposed on the bottom right. Super easy to remove but make sure you have 4" glass cooking pan or another way to get the water that remains in the line that goes to the washer tub. The hardest part is those stupid retaining clips. The back one is too far to get two hands back there, so holding the wrench, the pump, and the hose is almost impossible without another set of hands, which I didn't have. Took me 15 minutes for one clip. I suggest you first unplug the electrical and unbolt the pump before you do it so you can get more reach with the hoses. Ditto on the reverse.

I replaced the temperature sensor at the same time as the inlet valves. Unscrew three bolts to the back of the washer top where the controls are. Move the washer forward 3" so its not even with the dryer if the dryer is on the right side of the washer. The top assembly pops out and then to the right 3/4" to remove it. Take a picture of the electrical connections before you do anything. Unplug all the quick disconnect electrical connections so you don't mess up and smack the circuit boards, or pull too hard on a wire. Set it aside. The valve replacement is straight forward, just a few nuts holding it down, adjustable pliers to unscrew the hoses, and a hose clamp. Remove the valve. Then remove the temperature sensor. It's held in place on top of the water inlet, the Y-shaped part inside the washing machine that lets the water drop down. You need to unscrew that Y-shaped piece with its 2 sheet metal screws. Easy job. Pull it out and guide the electrical wires down the hole. Replace the sensor and reinstall the opposite way. But, you will see some tape on the wires which I think is to make sure the jiggling and vibrations don't rub through the insulation where it hits the metal (in the area where the valves are). Get some strapping tape or something to protect it. Carefully pull the wires back up the channel and tape around the areas that contact the metal when the wire turns 90 degrees to be plugged in. Install the valves. Plug everything back in. In my washer the electrical connections are all keyed so you shouldn't be able to plug it into the wrong spot. However, the red wire on the temperature sensor that goes to the far left can be plugged into a different slot if you aren't careful. Check the photo. Also, use zip ties to keep the wires from bouncing around.

I ran a few loads before putting the front back on. I don't recommend that if you have kids or stupid adults or cats or .... so cordon off the area if you aren't alone. That way you can see if you have any leaks from the pump and you don't have to take things apart again.

All works fine now! The biggest cost of the job is your labor, so if you are replacing the valves, buy and replace the temperature sensor because it tells the valves when to open and close. It might be the faulty part and not the valve. Good luck.

Easy to replace, take off the front cover take off hoses unscrew and attach the new pump. Problem wasn't the pump. Now that I have a new pump, not sure what to do next.

Very easy to put a new water pump. You have to disconnect two hoses from the pump, unplug the power connection from the pump, and unscrew the two screws from the base of the pump.

Repair video is spot on but does not emphasize securing the drain pump to the washer before reattaching hoses. This holds the pump in place allowing you to compress the hose clamp while pushing on the hoses.

Followed the video with one exception. The hose clamps were the spring-loaded type and putting the back hose clamp on was a problem, so I substituted a nut driven hose clamp. Other than that, no problems.

The job was rather simple. After removing front panel with the aid of a putty knife to push back the spring clamps under the top panel, the pump is in plain view. Remove the two mounting screws and push back the spring clamps that secure the connection hoses. Squeezing the spring clamps that hold the hoses onto the pump can be a bit troublesome so I removed the spring clamps completely and replaced them with radiator hose clamps which made the job a whole lot easier. Replaced the front panel and the job was finished.