Part Location Diagram of 4036ER4001B LG Gasket
See part K141 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Gasket

$42.63
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PartSelect Number PS3522859
Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER4001B
Manufactured by LG
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking
This part works with the following products:
Washer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
LG, Kenmore.
Part# 4036ER4001B replaces these:
AP4437757, 4036ER4001B
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 17 reviews. What's this?
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Worn bearings
To replace the bearings a complete disassembly of the washer was required. After pulling the tube assembly from the cabinet and separating the tube enclosure halves and removing the rotor and stator, since the washer uses direct drive, a gear puller was required to push the drive shaft through the old bearings since they didn’t separate easily as seen in several YouTube videos. After removing the tube assembly it is recommended that you also separate from the spider, which contains the drive shaft, from the tube itself since a significant amount of sediment had caked inside the indentations on the inside of the spider. Since the front bearing, part number 4280FR4048D, was no longer available I used an NTN double sealed bearing, part number 6306LLUC3/L627. The only other tricky aspect of the repair was pushing the drive shaft through the new bearings since pushing it by hand did not produce enough force to get it through to expose enough of the shaft on the other side to be able to reconnect the rotor. The solution was to pull the shaft through rather than pushing it. To do this I placed a 1 3/4 inch drive socket over the outer ring of the rear bearing, and then I used a 3 inch 10mm x 1.50 mm bolt through the drive socket with enough large washers to use as spacers between the bolt head and the drive socket. I then threaded about a half inch of the bolt into the center of the drive shaft by hand to remove any gap between the bolt head and the washers. As I turned the bolt clockwise with a 17mm drive socket wrench the bolt pulled the drive shaft through the bearings with ease. I did follow the manufacturer’s recommendation to replace the seal between the two tube enclosure halves and the three dampers with new ones since they do eliminate much of the vibration during the spin cycle. I also replace the top bellows since I noticed that a large hole had been formed on it by rubbing against the inlet hoses which are situated directly above. The repair took a week only because I had to wait for parts.
Other Parts Used:
Shock Absorber Assembly
  • Anthony from Crystal Lake, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
91 of 154 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
Other Parts Used:
Locking Pin BEARING,BALL BEARING,BALL Rear Tub Gasket Shock Absorber Kit
  • Todd from STOCKTON, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
67 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
Other Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Rear Tub Gasket
  • Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer grinds while running
as expected, the rear bearings were GONE!.. hard part was removing the inner tub from the outer one. hint... put the bolt in the shaft, tighten and pond the crap out of it ... takes time but the tub will come out, after that it's easy
Other Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Rear Tub Gasket
  • mark from REEDSVILLE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud grinding noise, especially during the spin cycle.
First I watched several videos on YouTube, numerous times. When I started to disassemble the washer, I put the parts I removed on the floor in the work area in the order I removed them. I also took a couple of photos of where wiring and hoses went so I would have a reference the next day (I took parts of two days to complete the repair).When I removed fasteners (screws, etc), I labeled them as to what part they went with, making re-assembly easier and faster. The most difficult part was re-installing the wire retainers on the door bellows (make sure you use some liquid dish detergent as lubricant). The results were great, I have a like "new"washer now.
Other Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear BEARING,BALL Rear Tub Gasket
  • Richard from CUMMING, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer sounded like the 3:10 to Yuma was rolling through the laundry room when the washer hit the spin cycle.
Google LG washing machine bearing replacement, you'll find a very informative video narrated by a British gentleman who will walk you through the steps. If you are even a slightly handy DIY'er this is an easy job although very time consuming. Take your time with reassembling the machine. I missed a couple of connections and while testing it out I flooded the laundry room. Could have been avoided if I had taken a picture of every individual item I disconnected.
Other Parts Used:
BEARING,BALL Washer Tub Bearing Rear Tub Gasket
  • Joseph from YUMA, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very noisy when tub was spinning , tub bearings and seal were bad.
Watched a YouTube video on how to disassemble the washer step by step, replace the bearings, and reassemble the machine. was very helpful.
Other Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear BEARING,BALL Rear Tub Gasket
  • Gerald from CENTRALIA, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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The washer drum sounded like a plane taking off in the mudroom.
Started with some resin paper on the floor, some painter’s tape, and a sharpie to keep track of screws and removed parts (painter’s tape to stick hardware to). Set up iPad on dryer and followed every step by step instruction by pausing the video. The instructions were perfect (but would have liked some more close up shots). Installation of new bearings was exactly as demonstrated and truly appreciated the step by step descriptions to put it all back. Hardest part of the repair was replacing the wire ring on the rubble gasket — only step not displayed. Suggestions for future repair videos: 1) how to organized hardware as removed; 2) more close ups; 3) a video showing the problem at the start followed by a video showing post repair. As a visual person, I have spend the past few days watching the spin cycle wondering if there is a wobble or shudder etc… Similar to the feeling of buying a used car…every clunk or shudder gets you worried. Love that I saved $1000 plus taking on the repair.
Other Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Rear Tub Gasket
  • Woody from RED HOOK, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dry bearing noise
I researched the symptom, watched a repair video, ordered the parts: one rear bearing, seal, and gasket. After disassembly found inner bearing to be bad. Ordered inner bearing. Then found the spider or hub shaft corroded, and ordered spider. Finally with all the parts replaced, assembled washer and returned it to service.
Other Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Rear Tub Gasket
  • ROBERT from BETHLEHEM, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Making noise on the spin cycle
Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.
Other Parts Used:
  • Ritchie from HOUMA, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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4 questions answered by our experts.
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RICH
March 2, 2020
Looking for the door seal the big gray seal inside.
For model number WM3470HVA
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Hello Rich, thank you for your question. The large gray door seal is PartSelect Number PS3648651 for this unit. I hope this helps.

2 people found this helpful.

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Noel
May 27, 2019
Washing machine leaks from the front
For model number WM2101HW
PartSelect logo
Hello Noel, thank you for inquiring. For this symptom you will want to replace either the Cold Water Inlet Valve part PS11728995, the Hot Water Inlet Valve part PS3527427, or the Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose part PS3523345. We hope this helps.

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James
September 3, 2021
Does part number ps3648651 (large grey seal inside door) fit my washing machine model number WM3885HCCA? Thank you.
For model number WM3885HCCA
PartSelect logo
Hello James, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS3535211. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Related Parts:
Kim
October 16, 2022
My washer started becoming very noisy, then began leaking some time later. I noticed when I checked for a clog by removing the small basket that catches debris that there was a long grey plastic piece that looked like it might have been a seal. Can you tell me what part I need to repair this washer
For model number WM2150HU
PartSelect logo
Hello Kim, thank you for asking. We have researched your model and found that the grey plastic piece that you removed was a gasket, that might also cause noise. You can get the door gasket, part number PS3524977. Good luck with your repair. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.

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Related Parts:
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS3522859
Manufacturer Part Number: 4036ER4001B
Brand
Model Number
Description
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40272
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41548
Washer - LG Washing Machine Model 41548 Parts
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41549
Washer - LG Washing Machine Model 41549 Parts
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41573
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41722
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41728
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