Whirlpool 341241 - Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" | PartSelect.ca
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241 Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241 Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241 https://partselectca.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/UTGT4VNQ.gif

Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"

24 Reviews

Your Price

CAD$19.72

PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
Manufactured by Whirlpool

This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.

This part works with the following brands: Kenmore, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Norge, Roper, Maytag, Magic Chef, Crosley, Admiral, Estate, Amana, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Hoover.

This part works with the following products: Dryer.

This part fixes the following symptoms: Will not tumble | Noisy | Will Not Start | No heat or not enough heat

Videos For installing this part.

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PartSelect: PS11743765
This part provides the tension for a multi-ribbed belt and helps the belt to rotate the drum. This arm attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
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PartSelect: PS373087
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built in 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models. This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, fo...
$34.38
In Stock
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 353 reviews What's this?
351-353 of 353
19 of 700 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer:
James from brooklyn, OH
Belt making noise
Removed screws holding the lint screen,using a small pry bar poped the top of the drier and using a nut driver removed two screws that hold the frount panel on , carefuly lift it so the drum fall. then you might want to prop the drum with a coffee can while you get everything ready. Bend the idler tentioner back remove the belt carefuly release the tention, lift the tentioner out of its holder. Replace the belt and install the new and improved ider pulley and reasemble. Before you put the top down, make sure the drum turns freely, the rear seal on the back of the drier might be turned under the bulk head use a puddy knife and turn the drum counterclockwise one full turn and your ready to replace the top.

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45 of 999 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer:
Polly from Winder, GA
Dryer would not start.
The first issue I had was diagnosing the problem, but after researching on the internet I was able to determine that the High Limit Switch caused the Thermal Fuse to blow. I found instructions on how to check the Thermal Fuse with an Ohm Meter, which was bad. This was a simple test. I removed the Thermal Fuse from the machine and tested it by using my Ohm Meter on the continuity setting. The instruction said that the fuse should always be closed and have continuity. Simply put, its like having a light switch in the on position. I put the leads from the Ohm Meter on the two connectors of the Thermal Fuse and found that there was no current passing through it, telling me that it was bad and needed replacing.
The bigger issue for me was what caused the Thermal Fuse to go bad in the first place, which was evident after I opened the dryer to check the part. The dryer was full of lint. Now understand that the lint that was inside the dryer was just a dusty coating, but I am one of those people that when he takes something apart and it is dirty I have to clean it before I put it back together, which payed off for me.
I removed the front panel to make it easier to clean the machine. This is when I noticed that the lint trap was almost completely blocked. Most people like me just before starting a load will clean the lint screen, but we never think that over time some of that lint gets by the screen and has to go somewhere. Well in this machine this happened and eventually clogged the tunnel leading out of the machine, which caused the machine to not be able to breath, which caused the heating element to overheat and blow the Thermal Fuse. I also used this time to inspect the rest of the machine, which again payed off.
During my inspection I found that the belt was beginning to fray, the drum seals were starting to tear and the pads under the drum glides had started to fall out, so I decided to order all the parts and refurbish the machine.
While I was waiting on the parts to arrive I disassembled the machine and cleaned everything and removed the old parts.
The first step I took was to clean out the lint tunnel on the front panel of the machine. To do this I first had to remove the front drum seal which is held on using a double sided tape. I then opened the door and removed the two screws that held the tunnel in place. I then removed the tunnel from the front panel and was able to remove all the lint that was clogged inside. This tunnel also has a foam seal, which is used to seal it against the front panel stopping the lint from escaping into the inside of the dryer compartment, which I also replaced. It was easy to install as it comes with a self adhesive backing. The next step was to reassemble these parts in the reverse order that I took them apart. This is where I ran into my first setback. Reinstalling the tunnel was not a problem but, when I went to install the felt drum seal I found that it did not come with a self adhesive backing and I had no way to secure it on the machine. So I had to go the next day and purchase some double sided tape which I used to attach the seal.
The next thing I did was to remove the drum from the machine. I did this by reaching inside the machine and releasing the belt off the tensioner. I then took hold of the front of the drum and lifted it slightly while pulling it towards me which allowed it to pop off the rollers which the back side of the drum rides on. I then removed the felt seal from the back side of the machine. This seal was a little more difficult to remove as the factory glues this seal in place. I cleaned this surface and reattached the felt seal using the double sided tape.
The next step was to replace the front drum glides. These glides are a two part component. The first part is a Teflon coated glide and the second part is a felt pad that goes underneath it. I removed the old parts, cleaned the surfaces and reinstalled the glides in the reverse order.

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42 of 1294 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer:
Vicki from Santa Maria, CA
Tumbler in dryer was not tumbling
We discovered that the front of the dryer popped off after removing screws at the bottom of the front panel.
The tumbler seal had rotted away, the drum support rollers were frozen and the belt had broken. My husband did most of the work. I assisted, this was a 2 man job. We removed the old seal glue with Goo Gone, we put the new seal on with both of us working on it using clothes pins. Then we glued the new seal with one of us holding the seal up while the other put the glue under it. My husband replaced the drum support rollers, got the idler pulley ready and put the belt around the drum. He lifted and I guided the tumbler (drum) into position. I held the drum while he installed the idler pulley assembly. I kept holding the drum while he got the front panel, put it in position and re-connected the electrical wires on it. Once we had that done he was able to install the front panel. Then came the moment for the test drive, and what do you know but it worked!! We didn't have to spend $$ for a new dryer, it cost us some time (probably around 5 hours total, taking apart, ordering parts and putting together), and a little over $100!! We were happy!

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